by In most cities, the opening of a yoga and meditation studio would spark a lot of intrigue, maybe a few raised eyebrows – not a visit from the authorities. “I could tell they were secret inspectors,” said Shadi Enbashi, co-owner of SEVA Experience in Dubai, recalling the “two guys” who appeared during one of his first events many years ago: lecture on cosmology and energy flow. “They asked him, ‘What are you doing? What’s happening upstairs?’”
Shadi laughed as I laughed, assuming that despite the UAE’s progressive attitude, the open practice of astrology, tarot reading and energy healing would be controversial. “No – they listened to the lecture,” he continued, “and afterwards they came down and said, ‘This is incredible.’ They loved what they heard. Now we work with the government on team building and wellness events.”
I’ve been visiting the city for nearly 15 years, and I’ve witnessed its transformation from a flashy expat playground to a cultural powerhouse, with an abundance of fine museums and galleries. But quietly, Dubai’s attention has also shifted from the hedonistic to the spiritual, with full moon ceremonies, energy healing and breathwork classes popping up across the city. I followed the trend from afar, spying on friends in my hometown as they swapped boozy brunches for sunrise yoga and reiki—and they all looked great for it. But can this excessive city really do well? And if so, how can vacationers benefit from it too?
I’d expect SEVA Experience to be a smart but classy yoga studio, but this white-washed villa is an oasis. In his courtyard garden, the pink flowers of bougainvillaea fluttered in the wind, and the city’s roar – the precious horns and the noise of construction – faded away in a distant whisper.
SEVA was offering holistic treatments long before they were trendy: Shadi’s wife, Eda Güngör, founded the center in 2014, in Jumeirah, a quiet neighborhood known for its low-rise houses and long sandy beach (but not but the Burj Khalifa and Dubai Mall only 15 minutes). taking place).
As I was talking to Shadi, barefoot people walked out of a yoga class, and the assistant left the empty studio with smoldering sage – a cleansing ceremony called smudging. “A lot of people say this is an escape from Dubai,” he smiled, gathering his legs into sukhasana, the cross-legged yoga pose. “But we say no: it is not an escape, it is an extension, a possibility. Something different.”
That evening, I joined SEVA’s “sound bath” session – and it melted me into a puddle. Perhaps it was the deep vibration of the gongs, and the ubiquitous low tones of the Tibetan singing bowls, whose sound frequency is reported to soothe the body at a cellular level. Or maybe it was simply lying down in a dark room for an hour, breathing deeply and stretching under the guidance of certified hypnotherapist Prem Amit. Either way, I emerged with blue eyes and Bambi’s leg: more dribbling than he was, but no tension nonetheless.
This year, SEVA workshops will include astrology and tarot readings, past life regression and full moon kundalini yoga – featuring chanting, dance and breath work. But for a lighter touch, many city attractions are exploring wellness in a more “traditional” setting in Dubai. At the glamorous DRIFT Beach Club, you can try sea view yoga, pilates and HIIT classes afloat on paddle boards in their pool. And look out for pop-up meditation and yoga classes at the likes of Aura Skypool (the world’s tallest 360º infinity pool), the 124th-floor Burj Khalifa terrace, and the 150m-high Dubai Frame – sure to impress glass floor spices on your part. downward dog.
From sky to sea, my next wellness date was in the depths of the Aquarium of the Lost Chambers, at the ocean-themed Atlantis resort, The Palm. “And relaaaax…”, insisted Katrina the yoga instructor, as a gaggle of stingrays shimmied over my head. “Flow like water, find space in your body…”
Normally, yoga-speak is irritated, but there was something hypnotic about the bubbly blue view through the aquarium glass, a window into the world of swirling fish and pits of the early morning sun. Four times a week, these hatha yoga classes take place before the aquarium opens to the public, a chance to stretch out next to – and then explore, at leisure – its 65,000 marine residents, who get their seafood restaurant standard and called by over 100 aquariums. , vets and water technicians. During the cool down, I watched as scuba divers were cleaning the other side of the glass, looking at their pampered charges.
The stingrays weren’t the only ones munching on seafood: at Twiggy by La Cantine, the beachside restaurant at my hotel, Park Hyatt Dubai, I ate pesto-drenched squid, garlicky gambas and truffle-topped seabass carpaccio – and I returned to a festival afterwards. of sushi and sashimi. I’ve stayed in countless Dubai hotels, but there’s something particularly soothing about the Park Hyatt’s lush gardens and Arabic-inspired architecture, and its Spa Ahasees delivers decadent treatments: think crushed-pearl body scrubs and gold-enriched massage oils. .
For decades, celebrity-endorsed restaurants have dominated Dubai’s dining scene, but a new crop of wellness-advocating venues are taking its place. Teible, at the Jameel Arts Center, has a Michelin Green Star for its “zero waste” menu, featuring foraged herbs and kohlrabi, kombucha and home-fermented dates. Even the most reluctant pickle eater can deliciously boost their microbiome; ask nicely, and executive chef Carlos Frunze might show you his fermentation cupboard, filled with bubbling jars.
I ended my trip by escaping the city, to a place I’d rather visit: the World Islands, a man-made archipelago loosely shaped like a world map. Located in “South America”, Anantara World Islands Dubai Resort is a haven of thatched waterfront villas, infinity pools and toe-in-the-sand dining. A large vegetable garden supplies its restaurants, and peacocks wander through the flower beds. It’s glitzy Dubai, but with a laid-back Maldives-style vibe.
“This is a place of purity,” said the resort’s Spa director Galina Antoniuk, as we discussed the resort’s wellness over tea. In addition to “regular” spa treatments, it includes crystal rituals, herbal poultices and magnesium baths (“to rebalance the body”), all devised by Galina, for whom spirituality is key. I tried the latter, and it was truly amazing: a deep tissue massage and a long warm soak in salt water with petals, followed by one final yoga session – on the beach, naturally.
As I leaned on one sandy foot, stretching my arms high into the tangle of trees, I anchored my eyes on the horizon – on the silver spire of the Burj Khalifa, looming in the distance across the water. Of course I felt perkier. How could I not? Yes, there will soon be another trend at home, but I’m with the incognito inspectors: this one is worth using.
The basics
Hazel was a guest at Visit Dubai. For more information, visitdubai.com. Emirates (0344 800 2777; emirates.com) offers direct flights to Dubai from seven UK cities – from £535 return, based on London Heathrow departure. Kingsize rooms at Park Hyatt Dubai (00 971 4 602 1234; hyatt.com) from AED595 (£134) per night, including breakfast. Ocean View Rooms at Anantara World Islands Dubai Resort from AED885 (£200) per night, including breakfast; anantara.com.
Yoga classes at The Lost Chambers Aquarium cost from AED160 (£32); atlantis.com. SEVA workshops from around AED110 (£23.50); sevaexperience.com.
Dubai from another angle
Four other alternative trends to explore
Astrology
Led by a professional astronomer, the Platinum Heritage Private Night Safari includes stargazing and storytelling deep in the desert, as well as a moonlight wildlife walk and three-course dinner (from AED2,500/£563 per group). Al Thuraya Astronomy Center features cutting-edge telescopes and tours.
Street food
Frying Pan Adventures’ “Middle Eastern Food Pilgrimage” features authentic dishes from Iraq, Syria, Palestine and beyond on the menu, in a four-hour walking tour (AED435/£93pp). For Lebanese street-style fare, head to Al Mallah (Al Dhiyafa Road); for local fish and seafood, book Bu Qtair in Umm Suqeim (+971 55 705 2130).
Wildlife
Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary is a ten-minute drive from downtown Dubai, but its marshes and mangroves are full of flamingos, kingfishers and eagles (free entry and tours). To spy desert foxes and Arabian oryx, visit Al Qudra Lakes (free).
Art
Alserkal Avenue is a thriving hub of small galleries, art cafes and independent shops – great for a (free) evening stroll. The Jameel Arts Center showcases talent from across the Middle East, with workshops and talks that provide a deeper insight into the region’s creative life (free).
