by You have to wonder what John Harris would make of Dubai. The glittering spire of the Burj Khalifa, the millionaires’ villas on the Palm Islands, the forest of skyscrapers in the Marina – what would he think of it all? Because it was this little-known and unlikely British architect who saw the city you see before you today, or at least his first blueprint.
In 1959, Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al-Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai at the time, commissioned Harris to design a plan that would elevate it from an obscure port to a global hub – and capture the world’s attention. This year is only 65 years since that first meeting, but the transformation of the city is almost unbelievable: it had no paved roads at that time, no infrastructure; donkeys carried their water supplies.
Harris’s plan aimed to change all that, but it didn’t gather real momentum until 1966, when a “jam jar” of crude oil was placed in Sheikh Rashid’s hands, the result of new drilling under his family’s sands. Black gold. The rags to riches story of the emirate began.
High rollers and rollercoasters
When you’re splashing up at downtown’s dancing fountains, bouncing over the waves on a jet ski, or floating 50 stories above the city at Aura Skypool, it’s impossible not to be captivated by the life of Dubai. The city is endlessly restless, to impress – the sunny-black, playful antithesis of our nation’s own cloudier outlook. And who can blame him? When the United Arab Emirates was formed in 1971, Abu Dhabi became the capital, leaving Dubai to pretend it was serious. Five decades later, it has transformed frivolity into an art form – but it also has a rich and intriguing depth.
Unlike most holidays, city breaks are not retreats from the world. There is no hesitation or snoozing in cosseted solitude: they put you right in the middle of the action. The senses are ignited, you wander between famous sights and little-known gems, immersed in new customs and culture. They inspire, they surprise, they inspire – and that’s not as tough as Dubai.
Art lovers can discover the Middle East’s creative scene through Alserkal’s bold independent galleries, and modern exhibitions at the Jameel Arts Centre. For history, there’s the Dubai Museum, housed in an 18th-century tribal fort; For shopping, you’ll find everything from high street to haute couture at Dubai’s many malls – or you could flex your haggling skills in a gold souk. From epic water rides and slides at Wild Wadi to more than 1.25 miles of rollercoasters at Dubai Parks and Resorts, its family offering is also superb. And its hotels are top notch: encompassing luxurious beach resorts, swish urban digs and plenty of budget-friendly (but squeaky-clean) options.
Dubai also has an extraordinary diaspora: over 200 nationalities live here, a cultural mix that puts most cities in the shade. The neighborhoods of Deira and Bur Dubai jostle with Omani antiques dealers, Indian sari shops and Iranian spice merchants, while food tours with Frying Pan Adventures offer everything from Emirati camel milk gelato to Sichuan noodles on the menu, through Iraqi dishes, from Pakistan and Egypt. . At the other end of the spectrum, the city glitters with 14 Michelin star restaurants and a bevy of “secret” supper clubs, whose chefs hail from Nicaragua, Palestine, Mexico and beyond.
Height, hits – and misses
With no red tape or purse strings, Dubai’s architecture certainly exceeded Sheikh Rashid’s wildest dreams. But it’s not just there to admire: on top of the 500-foot-tall Dubai Frame, you can walk the lively (or scary) glass-bottomed walkway; in the silver belly of the Torus-shaped Museum of the Future, you will find fun visions of life and technology in the coming centuries.
Of course, Dubai doesn’t get everything right. It’s not really walkable (but taxis are cheap), it’s too hot in the summer (but it’s glorious from November to March), and it’ll probably hammer your credit card – on the same scale as, say, New York or Tokyo. . Some of its attractions also feel uncomfortable, such as Aquaventure Waterpark’s “dolphin encounters” and Ski Dubai’s penguins – but does any city have everything right? Opt for a Platinum Heritage desert safari instead, to spy wild gazelles and Arabian oryx in the wider emirate’s ocean of dunes.
Nay-sayers often fear that the UAE lacks “real culture”, as if that can only be achieved through ancient cathedrals on cobbled streets, or oil paintings hanging in venerable galleries. But its legacy is tangible: in the spice-laden souks near Dubai’s Creek waterway, for example, and in the old Al Fahidi district, with its intricate maze of coral-brick houses built in the 1800s by wealthy pearl merchants. Here you’ll find secret courtyard cafes, craft shops and delightful niche museums specializing in Arabic coins, coffee and calligraphy. A warm dusky evening, the call to prayer comes out across the rooftops: goose bumps are guaranteed.
In 1971, Harris introduced a new, more ambitious urban design in light of Dubai’s oil bounty – which, in turn, changed several times over the years, as the city grew bigger and bolder. . But for all its grand plans, Dubai never fails to have a great time, a lesson we can all learn from – and perhaps the most vital ingredient to any city break.
How to get there
Dubai’s main carrier, Emirates (0344 800 2777; emirates.com), flies direct to the city from seven UK airports, 18 times a day. The journey takes seven hours, and costs around £535 return. British Airways (britishairways.com), Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) and Royal Brunei (flyroyalbrunei.com) also fly direct from the UK.
