by The first surprise is that half an hour’s train journey from Edinburgh to North Berwick is really as far as you need to go for a taste of elemental and remote Scotland, home to breezy beaches, stunning coastal walks and panoramic views. . The West Coast and Highlands may be more extreme, but then so is the journey to reach. In contrast, this is an easier but no less enjoyable adventure.
We take a sleeper train from London Euston, on to Edinburgh Waverley platform from our socket, a little crumpled but refreshed. As we check our luggage at the station, we give ourselves a few hours to wander the Royal Mile, ending at the National Gallery where we lose ourselves in a maze of rooms, and the death masks in the collection phrenology, including Voltaire, stands out. and Keats; every eyelash and nose pore preserved in fascinating detail. After a delicious vegan breakfast in their cafe, we are back on the train by noon.
Leaving Edinburgh behind, the sky widens, the horizon stretches and then the sea is seen. The second surprise is our holiday home. Looking through a series of iron gates and up a long driveway, you might assume that a large Gothic pile would greet you at the end of the road. But Leuchie’s Walled Garden is the bright opposite, surprisingly mid-century, white, slim, geometric and bright.
Designed in 1960 by architect James Dunbar-Nasmith for the Dalrymple family (historian and author William Dalrymple spent his childhood here), it’s the sort of home you’d expect hidden in the Hollywood Hills, but here it is, modern gem. dropped into a Victorian walled garden in a corner of East Lodian.
Refurbished three years ago, the decor has an even more contemporary edge; a combination of wood and glass coexists happily with the family’s collection of old books, objets d’art and antique furniture. The heart of the house is the open plan living area where 18th century family portraits preside over an Ercol style dining table and chairs and an expanse of floor to ceiling glass overlooking the lawn. Everywhere you look it’s an unhappy mix Mad Men it meets the baronetcy of Scotland, but somehow the combination works wonderfully.
We are a large party of three couples with various older children, but we barely touch the sides – there are six bedrooms and a bathroom plus a second kitchen – which is why we -it would work well for larger family gatherings and special occasions. The high walled garden is sheltered with its own micro-steppe, full of ancient trees and plants, and is suitable for younger children who can’t walk too far. There is also a tennis court, and on rainy days snooker, table tennis and darts.
Once you tear yourself away, Leuchie House is a great base for local walks, and North Berwick, regularly voted the best place to live in Scotland, is only a mile down the road. With its scenic coastline and two sweeping sandy bays, it was once a prominent Victorian seaside resort (the Biarritz to the north), but it fell into disrepair over the years. In recent years its fortunes have changed, drawing comparisons with Margate and boasting a thriving food scene, including bakeries, artisan coffee makers and the award-winning NB gin and vodka distillery.
Along the High Street, full of cafes, bars and shops, is the Bostock Bakery, famous for its legendary loaves and pastries – the almond croissant is particularly May – so delicious that Noma chef René Redzepi reposted one on Instagram in 2016. That explains the queue. Also unmissable is the Steampunk cafe where they have been roasting their coffee on site for over a decade. The morning we visit, it’s full of locals, teenagers and young families with workers on their laptops.
Dunbar is a coastal town 20 minutes along the coast, currently less discovered than its neighbour. But it’s just as attractive with lovely breezy beaches and glorious sea views, a harbor and a historic high street with plenty of lovely shops – a highlight is the Sweets Bank selling its award-winning ice cream.
On our last morning, we walk along the coast to Tantallon Castle, a crumbling 14th century fortress with views of endless sandy beaches and coves along the way. It is worth stopping at the Drift cafe, half a mile away, to break the journey and enjoy the wonderful views over the Forth. Another of the many foodie success stories around here, husband and wife Stuart and Jo fell in love with the spot and five years later, the cafe has won awards for its fresh seasonal menu, from slow lamb -cooked to grilled wild mushrooms or an old-school bacon hunk.
No visit to North Berwick is complete without a trip to the top of Law, a 186m high pointed volcanic plug covered in grass that juts out from an otherwise flat landscape. It’s a steep climb, about half an hour each way, but well worth the effort. The sun breaks out and the clouds disappear as we reach the top. Exhausted, we lay on the grass staring out at the panoramic views across the Forth and a view of the Lomond Hills beyond. After a relaxing evening, there’s still time to visit Bostock Bakery, and one of those amazing croissants.
For a group of up to 12 (six bedrooms and bathrooms), the house costs from £81pp per night for a week or for six couples sharing, £1,133. For more details, leuchiewalledgarden.com. Caledonian Sleeper train from Euston to Edinburgh board from 23.45 midweek and 23.30 at weekends. A club room with en suite, breakfast and station lounge costs from £235. For more details, sleeper.scot
