by MILAN – Designers have had ease and usability for the past week here. A tour of the city’s showrooms and a presentation during Milan Men’s Fashion Week provided plenty of options aimed at elevating a closet with approachable pieces, whether one is looking for timeless sophistication or taking advantage of trends.
Here, WWD rounds up the key items to find when building a wardrobe for spring 2025.
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Knitting: Massimo Alba
Even in a collection that leaned heavily on versatile jackets and lightweight suits made in a pleasing color palette of soft pink, beige, mustard, copper and shades of blue, Massimo Alba’s expertise in knitwear shined through. This season, the designer showcased innovative uses of linen silk and mulberry in timeless crews and cardigan styles, and mixed mulberry silk with organic cotton in the Jacob V-neck knit, making for the ideal transitional weather essential with his casual elegance.
The Camp Shirt: Altea
An artistic vibe ran through both Altea’s collection and presentation, staged at the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi and featuring artwork by Jamaican-born, France-based artist Danny Avidan. But it was an exhibition of Italian painter Giorgio Morandi’s work that inspired creative director Luigi Fila to favor soft, soothing tones and infuse a relaxed mood into relaxed tailoring, light shirts, loose trousers and craft crochet knits. For a touch of eccentricity, he added muslin camp shirts splashed with original prints inspired by nature.
The Leisure Suit: Slides
Traditional suits have become relaxed and cool this season, even among the most traditional of men’s players. Slowear pioneered the concept with the introduction of leisurewear — at the crossroads of workwear and pajama styles — featuring straight-leg trousers and an overshirt instead of a blazer. Made from a technical cotton-blend yarn and available in a wide range of colours, it’s been complemented with bermuda shorts, joggers and a bowling shirt in the same make, making it a travel-ready wardrobe in itself. Similarly, a functional set consisting of wrinkle-free technical pants matched with a blazer, bomber jacket and overshirt allows customers to personalize their outfit based on occasions of use. Slow clothing – which includes pants maker Incotex; Zanone knitwear; Glanshirt, and Montedoro outerwear as well as Officina Slowear accessories and footwear – are gradually trying to move from an umbrella of separate brands towards becoming a coherent menswear label rooted in laid-back elegance.
Denim pants: Jacob Cohën
At Jacob Cohën, denim reigns supreme. The brand is a specialist in fabric and this season artistic director Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle pushed the envelope of experimentation further with cuts and processes, including blending organic cotton and lyocell in the Sean five-pocket pants. Denim over-shirts and jackets have added to the line, which Tommasi Bardelle continues to expand to offer a complete look, consisting of smooth polo shirts, suede jackets and crisp trench coats. More is expected to come, as at the end of last year the company took full control of JC Industry, the firm that previously managed its production and distribution, to bring such operations in-house.
Meanwhile, the label collaborated with upcycling denim brand Scpt to breathe new life into 1,416 pairs of jeans that failed Jacob Cohën’s high-quality standard tests but were gifted and recreated in couture-like pieces on display at the show. present here.
The Striped Shirt: Harmont & Blaine
Gen Zers were already on the streets of Milan during fashion week wearing oversized Oxford shirts, unbuttoned versions and layered over ribbed tank tops. While Harmont & Blaine’s spring collection featured a more traditional bias cut, there were plenty of summer options, from colorful striped styles to more edgy gingham designs. Inspired by ’90s designs found in the brand’s archive, the shirts aligned with the expanded range of beachwear to align with the season’s theme of “Summer Europe” which relied on optimism. Popsicle-colored, tie-dye and bandana prints on sweaters and short-sleeve shirts added to the overall vibe that was heading to Capri and other summer destinations.
The Suede Jacket: Brett Johnson
Suede ruled the outerwear category during Milan Fashion Week and the American designer Brett Johnson had handsome ones with a touch of silk and patch pockets laid out with a 3D effect, details scattered throughout the collection and also in accessories, which were used instead logo. Suede bomber jackets came with hoods and canneté waist bands on both sides, while a blazer version incorporated subtle useful details, including zip pockets. Overall, the collection, inspired by Johnson’s trip to Portofino, the tony seaside resort recreated in the location of the presentation, continued to emphasize the designer’s commitment to craftsmanship and a quiet luxury aesthetic.
The Tracker pants: Fila+
Elevating one of its hero pieces, Fila+ – the more trendy and upscale line relying on modernizing the archives, unveiled in January – went for high-end interpretations of hand-stitched acetate tracksuits with slightly roomier pants with a Fila flag and F-Box Logo. Paired with cable-knit sweaters, it conveyed a cool preppy look. Fila+ creative director Lev Tanju, founder of British streetwear brand Palace, teleported guests to the presentation in the early 90s, recreating apartment rooms with vintage furniture and models and real people of all ages pretending to they were playing cards at a table, listening to them. music in their teenage bedroom or through-ing one of the Fila+ knits on the sofa.
The Workwear Jacket: Carrier
Marc Forné and Manu Rios know a thing or two about style. Jumping from front row to row, they have seen many fashion shows and traveled the world enough to master the art of putting together a suitcase in the blink of an eye. Reflecting their packing practice, picking basics that could be easily combined and styled together reflects the spirit that the Spanish duo launched their brand carrier last year, rooted in wardrobe essentials with a utilitarian flair and streetwear sensibility.
As well as ribbed knits, over-shirts, slim-fit tank tops, fleece hoodies and ripstop cargo pants, the line-up included versatile workwear parkas and jackets, such as Barrau’s design which quickly became one of the items the label and its distinctive look with cargo pockets is a bestseller. and an approachable price point of around 250 euros.
“The idea was to give access to our wardrobe and offer styles that empower [customers] without thinking too much but looking good,” said Forné about the brand’s mission, which was two years in the making.
Top Sleeve: Cultura
Cultura worked ’80s inspired volume and stonewashed treatments into sleeveless tops, safari jackets and cargo pants. Inspired by the Paris-Dakar Rally race, the brand mixed sand colors with color-blocked stitches inspired by local desert cultures. He also integrated prints depicting desert landscapes and numbered patches evoking the competition of cars and motorcycles.
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