by At least 20 million tourists descended on Croatia in 2023, and British tourists came eighth in the league table. The numbers are almost higher than pre-Covid levels, and that’s even with price increases after Croatia joined the eurozone last year, along with rising inflation. People can’t seem to get enough of Croatia’s beachy Adriatic coast and historic cities.
But while Dubrovnik, Split and Rovinj have more tourists than they know what to do with, there are so many parts of Croatia – even those within the range of the big winners – that have slipped under the radar.
You could skip Dubrovnik for a countryside stay in the Konavle region, or bypass Istria for the towns and villages of the Kvarner Gulf. Inland Croatia offers an enticing mix of active adventures in its many nature parks as well as cultured cities ripe for weekend breaks.
Whether you want to hike in pine-covered mountains, swim in the Adriatic, lose yourself in the Baroque beauty of the elegant Habsburg towns or combine all three, you’ll find inspiration for 2024 right here.
Osijek
Just before the border of Croatia meets Hungary and Serbia, you reach the majestic capital of Slavonia. Osijek’s history as an Austro-Hungarian stronghold is easy to see as you wander around the cobbled baroque streets of Tvrda, the 18th-century Habsburg fortress. As many of the old military buildings are now used by the university, there is a pleasant buzz in the cafe terraces.
Things get even livelier along the Drava River, where the last 100 yards of a seven and a half mile riverside promenade – the longest in Europe – will be completed this year. It is already a favorite place for cycling, jogging, walking and swimming.
For a taste of the countryside, drive 15 minutes to Kopa Rit Nature Park and explore this peaceful world of wetlands and marshes.
Where to stay
Boutique Hotel Tvrda is in the heart of the Austrian castle, with beautiful views from its rooftop pool and stylish rooms within a handsome building. Double bed & breakfast from £91.
When to go
Osijek is a year-round city, with events taking place every month including antiques fairs, sports competitions and food festivals. In July and August, expect live music, theater and open-air films during Osijek’s Summer of Culture. The riverside Pannonian Challenge every June is a huge draw for BMX and skateboard fans.
Conavle
From 2 April, you will be able to fly to Dubrovnik with Ryanair from Stansted, making it easier to access the Konavle hinterland and coastal region. Nestled between the Dinaric Alps and the Adriatic, Konavle is the bucolic antidote to the busy streets of Dubrovnik. As Konavle’s largest town, the very pretty Cavtat, grows, escape to the inland villages for a taste of rural Dalmatia, among the vineyards and olive groves.
Head to the hills above the small town of Dunaby to reach Sokol Grad, a sympathetically restored medieval fort that offers stunning views from its ramparts. If you want to swim, follow the narrow narrow road down to the unpretentious village of Molunat, which curves around a rocky cove.
Where to stay
Take in sea views from the rooftop infinity pool at Hotel Cavtat, which is just a few minutes’ walk from Cavtat Beach. B&B doubles from £100.
When to go
Konavle’s season lasts from April to October, with June and September being the prime months to visit. In July and August things can be busy, especially around Cavtat. The weather remains pleasant in October and even in November.
Mountains & Zcaron;umberak and Samobor
Day and weekend tourists from nearby Zagreb regularly head southwest towards the Slovenian border and the forested peaks and waterfalls of the Zcaron;umberak and Samobor Mountains for hiking, cycling or just filling their lungs with fresh mountain air. On the way they will turn into the fairy tale Samobor for a stroll around its baroque cobbled streets.
Wine connoisseurs meander along the Plešivica wine route in the gentle hills around the town of Jastrebarkso – especially the restaurant and wine estate at Korak Winery, which last year picked up a Michelin star for its refined but sustainable local cuisine.
Where to stay
You’ll have hiking trails and wine routes on your doorstep at Kuća za Odmor & Ccaron;arolija, a four-bedroom wooden cottage with a large garden and barbecue facilities. It is at the foot of the Samobor Mountain and about 10 minutes’ drive from Jastrebarsko. Rent from £101 per night.
When to go
If you’re not hiking in winter and snow, hike in spring and early summer when the meadows are full of wildflowers. Samobor hosts a carnival in February, and in June a popular jazz festival and mountain biking weekend.
Glen Gacka
Croatia’s hinterland region of Lika is much more than its main attraction, Plitvice Lakes National Park. Escape the crowds by following the course of the Gacka River, near the town of Otoč to discover how this tranquil valley surrounded by karst mountains is one of the biggest adventure playgrounds in Croatia.
It has everything you need for an active holiday – kayaking (including clear kayaks to show off the sparkling waters of the Gacka), cycling, fishing, quad biking and hiking. It is certainly one of the most affordable regions in Croatia, with beautiful fresh river trout on most restaurant menus for less than what you would pay for a starter in London.
Where to stay
Riverside Apartments, five miles south of Otočac, overlook the Gacka in a peaceful, tree-shaded location with a large garden, barbecue and children’s play area. Choose one of four apartments in two wooden houses, or rent a whole lot. The owners also offer kayaking, bike and quad bike rentals. Rooms from £83 per night, minimum two night stay.
When to go
You’d think Lika goes into hibernation during the winter, but its snow-covered landscapes attract visitors looking for a frozen, rural wonderland. For most outdoor activities – kayaking, biking, hiking – they come from April to October.
The Opatija Riviera
Croatia’s tourism began as a favorite holiday spot of the Habsburgs in the 19th century, and the beauty of old-world towns such as Opatija and Lovran is as attractive as ever. This part of the Kvarner Gulf even stood in Italy for the period drama series Hotel Portofino, which is returning to ITV for a third series later this year.
One of its main attractions is the eight-mile Lungomare promenade, which stretches from Lovran to the fishing village of Volosko. On the way, stop for seafood at the Luxembourg cafe in Ičići before reaching Opatija’s wedding cake architecture. Walk through Angiolina Park and past the Wall of Fame, commemorating famous guests including Einstein, Mahler, James Joyce and Isadora Duncan.
Where to stay
Until the new Keight Hotel Opatija, Curio Collection by Hilton opens in May, stay at Lovran’s Excelsior Hotel, which has stunning sea views from its rooms, outdoor pool and spa. Double bed & breakfast from £111.
When to go
Most of the Opatija Riviera remains open all year round. Lovran is in a carnival mood in February, and the Liburnia Opatija Jazz Festival in July is the biggest in Croatia.
