by While it may seem like there’s a new trending ingredient in skincare every week, few beauty insiders set buzzers. But that’s exactly what exosomes have done since scientists discovered that what they thought was cellular waste material in the skin is actually beneficial. Very beneficial, in fact, because experts believe that these little internal communicators have the ability to take years off our face. Don’t believe us? We asked the experts.
What are exosomes?
Whether it’s for acne or pigmentation, finding our skin help through treatments, products and lifestyle choices is second nature. But little did we know that we also had a helper on the inside delivering important messages and information to cells throughout the body, instructing them to act. “Exosomes are tiny extracellular vesicles or sacs that cells release into their surroundings,” explains Dr. David Jack, physician and cosmetic surgeon. “They play a vital role in cell communication and carry proteins, lipids, and genetic material that instruct other cells to behave in specific ways, stimulating regeneration and repair through activities such as increasing collagen production or reducing excess melanin production prevention in areas of hyperpigmentation. “
While platelet rich plasma (PRP) competes for effectiveness, the specificity of exosomes is what makes them so effective. “Unlike traditional growth factor treatments that may use larger, less specific biomolecules that can only signal to the surface of cells, exosomes can fuse with target cells to deliver their payload directly within,” says Dr Jack. “This allows for more precise and effective therapeutic effects, which can lead to better results.”
What are the benefits of exosomes?
If your goal is to look rejuvenated with plump and glowing skin, then exosomes could be for you. But Dr. Marco Nicoloso, medical director of Ouronyx is quick to add that those who are starting to notice the hands of time on their skin will see the biggest difference. “As we age, our cells struggle with the proteins and enzymes necessary to maintain healthy, supple and even skin,” he says. “Exosome therapy helps by generating and stimulating new proteins within the skin, restoring balance and giving it a more youthful appearance. It’s also great for those who may suffer from rosacea as exosomes reduce inflammation, revitalize smooth skin, and help retain hydration.”
While exosome treatments and products can be beneficial for anyone looking for plumper skin, renowned esthetics physician and entrepreneur Dr. Barbara Sturm believes they are especially beneficial for those who have seen signs of aging, damage sun, collagen loss, damage caused by environmental factors. , inflamed skin, scarring and hyperpigmentation. “Exosome technology is great for anyone who wants the next level of anti-aging support and better skin care ingredient science,” she explains. “Adding exosomes to your skincare routine is likely to show more results when the body’s natural production of exosomes has declined, which usually occurs in your 30s, and signs of sagging, dullness and elasticity are showing. your skin. . However, they will benefit anyone looking to address the common signs of aging.” There is also evidence to suggest that exosomes can help with hair loss conditions by promoting follicle health.
What is better: treatments or exosome products?
Exosomes are an emerging concept in the field of beauty so treatments are reserved for specific skin settings only, such as Dr David Jack’s clinics in London and Edinburgh, where he offers his ExoTech Exosome Therapy. Here, you can expect pre-made exosomes extracted from damascene rose cells to be spread over the skin before a micronizing device is used to create microscopic channels in the dermis of your skin, encouraging the product to absorb deeper. With a little downtime (some redness will dissipate within 24 hours), you can expect to see results within 48 hours, but collagen production in the dermis will increase by up to 700 percent over the course of several months. Yes, you read that right!
Dr. Jack and Dr. Nicoloso recommend seeking clinical treatment to reap the rewards of exosomes, the latter warning that they are “ineffective alone, as they cannot be absorbed into the skin without microneedle treatments or advance laser”. This step is crucial, he says, “because, despite their nanoparticle size, exosomes cannot penetrate the skin independently”. However, he says they can be used topically if used in conjunction with in-clinic treatments. “If you want to use exosomes as an addition to your skin care routine and maintenance, I recommend getting a treatment and then using the ingredients as maintenance at night, after retinoid, and before moisturizer. Exosomes can also help increase the effectiveness of other active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, peptides and antioxidants,” he says.
Although arguably more powerful in a clinic, Dr. Sturm, who has several exosome products within his skin care range, has actually found a formula to stabilize exosomes so that they can be used at home. “I created my Exoso-Metic collection with laboratory-synthesized growth factors that are absorbed by skin cells, helping to boost cell communication and cell signaling to initiate renewal and repair processes,” she says. “This supports the skin’s natural renewal mechanisms leading to supercharged anti-aging benefits, including improved firmness, smoother skin texture, reduced fine lines and wrinkles, improved skin tone, increased radiance and reduced pigmentation and age spots.”
As exciting as new skin care technology is, all the experts emphasized the importance of finding a certified doctor to perform exosome therapy as it passes the skin barrier. Another safety factor to note is that mammalian/human derived exosomes are not safe for cosmetic use. As aesthetic expert Dr Sophie Shotter says: “If the product comes from human stem cells, it is illegal in this country and should not be sold or used here.” Unfortunately the lack of regulation in this country means that such human-derived products are on the UK market – but “the reason human exosomes are illegal is because there is a chance of DNA transmission; if the donor had a disease or any DNA issues, this could be transferred to the patient”. Ergo, in Dr Shotter’s opinion – and ours – it’s not worth taking a risk, “especially when plant-based exosomes work so well”.
If you want to dip your toe into the world of eczema first with a topical product, try these options:
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