by For many, September signals a return to packed lunches and sensible shoes. For the fashion industry, it heralds four-week shows, supermodels, Hollywood stars, street style and lots and lots of silly shoes. Yes, fashion month is on again.
Next month will showcase the chic looks that will finally hit the high street and become the new “heart” of TikTok. But the shows also reflect changes in wider mood, a sort of litmus test for cultural trends. From hem lines to heel heights, neon to neon and the way a model is or isn’t composed, these trends are all part of a larger biennial vibe shift. With that in mind, here are some key moments to look out for…
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New York
Ralph Lauren kicking off New York fashion week today with a show in the Hamptons, home to Instagrammable board houses and juicy lobster rolls. It would be hard to name a more fitting setting to showcase Lauren’s distinctive aesthetic than the beachside playground of the rich and famous – the brand’s polo player logos and tennis dresses are practically the uniform of residents and weekend visitors alike. Guests at previous shows have included Glenn Close and Jennifer Lopez, so expect to see a star-studded crowd to the east end of Long Island.
On Sunday night, audiences will be treated to shows at another iconic east coast venue as Tommy Hilfiger he invites them to jump aboard the decommissioned Staten Island Ferry, which spent nearly 60 years ferrying commuters to and from Manhattan. In a statement, Hilfiger said: “New York City is the birthplace of the American dream, and the Staten Island ferry represents the gateway to self-expression for so many throughout history.” Can we expect him to add a nautical twist to his design signatures? We’re betting on nautical striped shirts and sailor collars. And will a boater hat replace the baseball cap as the new accessory du jour? Watch this space.
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London
LFW will continue its 40th anniversary with established labels (Burberry, Erdem and JW Anderson) showing alongside emerging names. The ones to watch include Sinésaid O’Dwyerknown for its comprehensive solutions, and Paolo Carzanaa Welsh designer who experiments with plant-based and recycled materials. Earlier this year, Harry Styles invested in Steven Stokey-Daleyunusual SS Daley brand. Before that, Liverpool designer Sir Ian McKellen read Alfred Tennyson’s poem Idylls of the King: The Coming of Arthur during a show. Can the designer convince Styles to follow suit?
From pop music to politics, some are wondering if Victoria Starmer could attend Eideline Leethe first catwalk show. The NHS worker and wife of Keir Starmer is a fan of the Canadian-born, London-based designer, even choosing a red Labor dress from the brand for the party’s conference in October. Or maybe Angela Rayner, known for her love of British labels, will hit the front row fresh from a dance in Ibiza. With the British fashion industry contributing £62bn to the UK economy, it would be good to see politicians show support.
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Milan
In the Italian fashion house, some surprising changes were made to the traditional schedule. After the retirement of the designer Peter Hawkings – and with Haider Ackermann, who was born in Colombia, who announced as a representative yesterday – Tom Ford is skipping the scene this season. Giorgio Armani he will also be absent. The 90-year-old designer is heading to New York in October for a show that will coincide with the opening of Armani’s massive new building on Madison Avenue, which will house everything from restaurants to residential units. But with big names including Gucci, Fendi and Bottega Veneta still on the agenda, the week won’t be flat.
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Paris
France will say “bonjour” to the Danish victor Ganniwhich is attached to the schedule for the first time. His catwalk debut takes place right after Dior and sometimes before Saint Laurent on opening day. All eyes will also be on the catwalk at Dries Van Noten. This is the first show of the brand without Dries himself. The Belgian designer led his eponymous label for 38 years before retiring in June with a swan song show that featured a silver foil-covered runway and 800 bespectacled guests. With a successor yet to be announced, the design is currently being overseen by a wider team. We can’t see them looking back from the brand’s signature shimmery fabrics and floral prints. But will he have the magic touch of the Dries?
The French capital will also host Alessandro Michelea highly anticipated catwalk debut for Valentino, following the somewhat surprising departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli in March. Michele, formerly Gucci’s creative director, will finally confirm the direction he wants to take the storied Roman house in. The Parisian brand, which previously spray-painted a dress on a nude Bella Hadid and let robot dogs hit the catwalk, is holding its next show at Disneyland Paris. This will be the first time the theme park will be held and it may be the first time Anna Wintour will wear Mickey Mouse ears. Speaking to Women’s Wear Daily, co-founder Arnaud Vaillant said: “Fashion can be a bit snobbish. We always like to take it to a bigger stage.” Get ready to see fashion at its Goofy…
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