by Return the dresses over trousers. Who would thunk it. I caught a glimpse of my favorite trend from the 1990s in a few street style pictures from Copenhagen Fashion Week earlier in the year – I sighed nostalgically, but didn’t think much more.
Then, a few weeks later on the Gucci runway, in the first collection from the new designer Sabato De Sarno: a dress with a crystal green, lime sheen worn over jeans, with heels and a snake green shoulder bag. Pure déjà vu from my Sex and the City period wardrobe.
As if I needed any further proof of the phenomenon, Alexa Chung is also recreating the look, posting a picture of herself on Instagram in a pouffy transparent black tulle dress over jeans, accompanied by the defiant caption: “I lost dresses over jeans, sorry if you didn’t.”
It’s official, then, that the “skouser” trend (not the most elegant neologism, I grant you) is back, if you wanted to give it another whirl… Or indeed try it for the first time.
To be clear, this is not all about wearing dresses or skirts over it jeans … It never was. Back in the 90s, slinky evening trousers with a slip dress and a full top were the foundation of some of my snazziest looks. Incidentally, this turned out to be a godsend once when I went to the American Bar at The Savoy with my boyfriend (now husband) for a Christmas cocktail. I was wearing a smart pair of bootcut pants with a jacquard shift dress and heels to match; but when his “indie boy” ensemble fell foul of the no-jeans dress code, I was able to lend him my trousers while still being perfectly reasonable (ladies’ pants night has of course gone down in family history – what? keeper!).
Fast forward to winter 2023, model Mouchette Bell, who has moved to the other side of the lens after many years as a stylist and fashion director, says: “I first really liked trousers with dresses in the nineties and I’m going to do again. I’ll be wearing very tight trousers or something more like pyjamas, really it depends on what makes you feel good, but I think it looks great.”
I should say that Bell is a walking masterclass in how to layer a vintage jacquard dress or sequin mermaid skirt over jeans – with a thermal t-shirt, and a parka – so that you get a sense of her eclectic, feminine style even in winter. a month when bundling up is essential.
It’s always very interesting when a particular trend comes back into focus; and why it repeats itself. In its ’90s iteration, the innocuous mash-up of gender and genres involving wearing a skirt over trousers was rooted in the spoiled glamor and androgyny of “grunge”. Who can forget the iconic image of Kurt Cobain with blond hair, beard on cover The Face in a floral frock?
Of course, the madness and rebellion of that provocative stance in a gender-fluid 2023-style outfit takes on new relevance. Traditional Indian clothing also had a strong influence on Western wardrobes in the 90s. Think: an embroidered tunic over floaty trousers, whether in the elevated designs of Dries Van Noten, or on the rails of the high street at Monsoon or Whistles; and not forgetting DIY sequin-spangled “Disco Bhangra” success for East-meets-West club nights. As the fashion conversation becomes more diverse and global, it makes sense that this approach to dressing is now fully in the mix.
Steph Stevens, the stylist and consultant who has worked closely with Alexa Chung over the years, was synonymous with the unexpected layering look of dresses/skirts over trousers in her ’90s fashion editorials for titles such as J17and minx (RIP). Why did this style speak to her? “It was fun!” she says simply. “The way I nailed the look was very edgy and mismatched. It was also a great way to use old clothes from different eras that somehow worked together, which translated into a ‘don’t worry’ vibe that I liked.”
Although Steven’s signature nineties style was tomboyish and not afraid to push the boundaries, she thinks that the phenomenon of dresses over trousers was attractive to a large number of women at the time, because it allowed them to try pieces that they already had in their wardrobe to find a silhouette that worked for them. “It can look so chic and it’s fun, which we all definitely embrace,” she says, describing a particular COS shirt as her go-to look.
I have a feeling that the trouser plus dress equation is a very promising solution for the party season. Because I always want to look good for the festivities, feeling comfortable and not too getting dressed to go on the tube is also high on my list of priorities.
With this brief in mind, I hit the fashion closet, with the Telegraph Styling Team. The mission? Putting together flattering, relaxed dresses-over-trousers that look flattering and ready-to-wear (without inadvertently making me look like I’m pretending to be a member of All Saints back Hits Smash photo story).
First, let’s try a midi font. I’m a little reluctant because I’m out of my (shamefully extensive) collection of mid-length frocks. They feel a little too safe and polite; not exciting enough for an evening on the town. Amazingly, when one is pushed over a pair of jeans (like I did here) the whole thing feels cooler and younger.
Crepe de chine dress, £475, Really Wild; Slim jumper, £109, By Jean; Velvet shoes, £160, Essca; Gold-plated rings, £195, Deborah Blyth
In fact, it puts me in the right mood to step out in a pair of velvet platforms. As style director Tona Stell says, a button-through dress works really well, because you can see a bit of leg (even though it’s covered in denim in this case); plus it’s easier to get out without feeling too swaddled.
Next: I love a slip dress layered over a polo neck or tee. In this case, I’m wearing my own Simone Rocha slip from a few seasons ago (who isn’t in love with “a touch of red” this winter?). The flimsy silk fabric of this particular slip meant it looked a bit “lumpy and bumpy” over jeans, instead we tried these Samsoe Samsoe lemon colored pants which worked perfectly and were super comfortable.
The dress is Sarah’s; Wool jumper, £39.95, Muji; Viscose blend trousers, £150, Samsoe Samsoe; Patent shoes, £69, Charles & Keith; Pearl rings, £165, Deborah Blyth
There are some beautiful velvet slip dresses in stores if you are looking for a heavier fabric. I liked the linen look under the slip, but if I were to try this look again for a night out, I’d go for a white linen t-shirt underneath instead, to make it feel a little less ‘covered up’ .
The third look was a revelation, a real party season player for me. Let’s just say there’s a reason women have been wearing Ghost dresses for nearly 40 years. The white winter number that the team picked out is a beauty. The signature heavy viscose satin is incredibly flattering, skimming rather than hugging the body (this also works well for layering, not too clingy over belt loops and buttons).
Satin dress, £64.50, Puka; Citizens of Humanity Straight leg jumper, £210, Harrods harrods.com; Platform shoes, £165, Essca; Pearl rings, £165, Deborah Blyth
As counter-intuitive as it may be, when wearing this beautiful dress over jeans, it felt wonderfully wearable; less “goodbye”, less “kept for good” than if I wore it with bare legs or tights. It gets a bit of Kurt meets Courtney “Hollywood nightie and threadbare Levis” 90s allure. To quote Mr. Cobain himself, it’s an outfit that says: “Come as you are.” It’s not overdone, it feels relaxed and ready to party.
Oh, that’s another thing I love about bringing back the trend of dresses over trousers, you probably already have all the components you need in your wardrobe. I think we can all drink to that.
