by MILAN – Black or white, with no color in between.
Partywear showed a range during Milan Fashion Week, with the designers’ inspiration running the gamut from cinema to music, going through Ancient Greece and the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe. But the color scheme remained consistent.
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Luca Lin from Act. N.1 was in a romantic mood, using cinema and the early days of the silent film as his inspiration. “Cinemas in Italy are closing or disappearing, which is sad,” said the designer. “For me, the cinema is a place to find peace and to dream.”
He wrapped much of this collection in tulle, from rough-edged denim to jackets with draping or corset details. The veil gave a wonderful view of the clothes and blurred their rough-hewn edges, or tailoring, and conjured images of the black-and-white screen. A creamy white jacket with a tulle skirt was one of the standout pieces of this collection.
He was also inspired by the women of the silent films and worked their corsets into denim tops and tailored jackets. He also made strong and blush-colored corsets with a layer of tailored clothing. Those corset styles added a touch of sex and drama to the collection.
Don’t ask Des PhemmesSalvo Rizza to give up his love for sparkle, embroidery, and tiny embroidery. For fall, his partywear candy outfit focused on the good woman, courtesy of medieval inspiration focused on the seductive precision of interior design at Casa Mollino, the Turin home and museum of renowned architect Carlo Mollino.
For bold girls, a low-waisted midi skirt with floral appliqué paired with a lace bra and undies looked out, while a swishy optical striped halterneck dress with maxi sequins looked frisky and easier to pull off, ditto for the cow print midi skirt and Lurex rib-knit turtleneck, except for the impossibly high side slit. Those flashy and distinctive pieces are mixed with extended daywear, a business advantage as the designer expands the brand’s range.
Now backed by Italian manufacturing company Olmar and Mirta SpA who acquired an undisclosed minority stake last year, Rizza has managed to build a leading firm Stateside, which now accounts for 70 percent of sales, while trying strengthen its footprint in Europe.
CHBChristian Boaro, who is distributed through the same MDC showroom as Des Phemmes, continued to trace his deviant bourgeois look, sticking to the sensible ideas that first brought him into the spotlight with his first solo fashion project.
A few dramatic dresses, including one see-through lace number with a track in four different patterns and a bustier dress fitted with a balloon midi skirt made in the duchesse, which were flanked by equally mischievous frocks (easier to imagine on a 30-something some hitting the night club).
Drawing inspiration from the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe and the evocative imagery of Grace Jones in the ’80s, Boaro worked black vinyl into mini dresses and draped strapless skirts, as well as bustier frocks with zippers or buttons running vertically down the front. A range of faux furs made in collaboration with supplier Tissavel put the hedonistic vein on the old school, as in the faux astrakhan belted trench coat and fuzzy short Mongolian jackets in red and black.
Sharing with Boaro a palette of colors like black, white but also red, Alessandro Vigilantewho will soon reveal his inaugural collection as creative director of Rochas, trying to go back to the first time he introduced the brand named for the first time with laTeX, form-fitting frocks and a sharp edge.
The graphic undercurrent was echoed in constructions and color combinations, such as the show-stopping white turtleneck wrap dress with a black trompe l’oeil print of a naked woman’s body on the back, smudging the painter’s artwork Kazimir Malevich. He was flanked by a tank dress in an open weave, a mesh-like knit dotted with tiny sequins, and a solid latex spaghetti frock and a faded ’80s blazer worn as miniskirts with a corset belt to cinch the waist for easier cocktail receptions . and after parties.
Francesco Murano another natural talent that could easily find the best place. He was about to graduate from the Istituto Europeo di Design in Milan when Beyoncé requested some of his creations for her music video “Spirit,” wearing another of his pieces for the official pre-Grammy 2020 party. His aesthetic refined hand was enhanced and expert in all things drapey – a reflection of his love for couture and Greek culture – in his new collection, which also introduced leather.
Murano worked both jersey – his fabric – and leather in such a way as to obtain the lightest versions of them, resulting in a seamless combination of the two as well as a new transparency. An even more seductive undercurrent was imbued in his sensible creations by rendering asymmetries, craters and plunging necklines in a traditional dusty palette of greys, whites and blush pink tones.
Emancipation he plans to return to the runway in September, but although he was sticking to the presentation format, he relied on his evening clothes and butter, doing a night set that would suit red carpet after parties .
Minidresses decorated in sequins with strong ’80s-needle shoulders and bustier tops and frocks, all made in a night palette, mixed with velvet blazers decorated with Lurex threads, worn over devoré chevron-and checkerboard-patterned blouses serving a more conservative party .
Gianluca Capannolo he put a fresh spin on his tailored, ladylike pieces, offering coats and caps gold-rimmed belts of gold shoes, and a wealth of gold chain jewellery. He even made a minidress from those gold chains, which should send an electric shock through any room.
The designer also had a rich faux fur offering including a Mongolian coat in a rich shade of claret, silver gray fox fur and dresses with ostrich feather trim. Some of these glamorous looks were often convertible, as in a pair of trousers that transformed into a maxiskirt thanks to strategically placed zips.
ATXV The founder Antonio Tarantini continued his study of the human body, this time landing on the “alive, strong, sexy and free,” feeling that crinkled sketching paper gave him. After building his blueprint on the use of twisted, torched and draped sweaters, Tarantini transformed the skeleton into a sensual, genderless ensemble with 90s swirls and subtle eroticism.
A micro-dress built on a simple silhouette, such as the body frock, long sleeve or spaghetti, was made to reveal a shoulder here and a belly there. Crimson viscose was similarly worked into off-beat formations, revealing constructions, including a short nightgown knotted at one hip to provide high cleavage and at the chest, revealing nude-look tulle as a base.
Federica Tosi She herself had much to celebrate, as the designer recently entered into a strategic partnership with Italian manufacturing company Industria 62 to increase the Made in Italy production of her namesake brand and drive its international expansion.
Fashion-wise, for fall, the designer continued to rely on quality manufacturing, crating his everyday pieces from wool, cashmere, silk and soft leather. Her signature penchant for clean lines and total commitment to the wearable was transferred to her eveningwear offering, too, through requisite long dresses covered in sequins for a simple yet impactful effect. Tosi added a dash of fun and movement in a frayed sequined outfit with hot pants that could also come with an invitation to the dance floor.
John Richmond He’s clearly a music nerd after pouring his fall collection into the genres that, he said, “saved his life,” from disco to rock and roll and hip-hop. The lineup was not too literal to translate that iconography – the wardrobe choice was heavy on tailoring and evening wear.
At the end, a pearl-trimmed one-shoulder mini dress had a revealing cut-out on the hip and torso, while a nude column dress was printed with tattoo-like drawings and finished with a crystal choker. As well as neatly cut suits for men and women, tailoring influenced party options, such as the golden brocade printed suit with flared pants or short shorts and the ivory glitter lapeled shantung suit worn with a shirt bowed to him.
Curiela team of interior designers tapped into the brand’s rich workshop and showcased a collection full of old-world glamour. There were ’50s dresses in velvet and satin reminiscent of a young Princess Margaret and sparkling sweets for the evening.
This season, the brand tapped multidisciplinary artist Matteo Thiela to collaborate with the brand. Thiela wowed guests as he created a sheer black evening dress with thousands of textured threads and a spinning mannequin.
The thread wraps around the mannequin, and Thiela is able to create different styles without using a needle and thread. He works with lamé, viscose, and cotton yarns, adds velvet ribbons, feather pieces and seals the seams with resin.
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