by Should I pack a head torch, I wonder? Or maybe some distress flares? I’m heading into the North York Moors, several miles from the welcoming lights of town, to spend the night in England’s first Dark Skies Friendly Village. Hawnby (population 193), nestled in a tangle of country lanes, is fighting back against the modern scourge of light pollution.
“It’s not about turning off the lights and plunging into darkness,” says Mike Hawtin, of North York National Park, “but about a better way of doing things.” Hawtin, who likes the Darth Vader-ish job title of “Dark Skies Officer”, explains that “tranquility” has always been a big thing for the National Park (declared an International Dark Skies Reserve in 2020) as part of the They are the two roles of a Park are “protection and conservation” and “promotion of enjoyment”. It is seen as worthwhile to cut unnecessary and intrusive lighting – more than 30 per cent of nocturnal wildlife, he says.
Unlike other Dark Sky locations – such as Presteigne in Wales – the entire village of Hawnby has embraced the project: lighting has been changed in homes, commercial buildings and street lights (to be fair, there are only two of them), and other farms on the list.
So how dark is it? Walking down Hawnby’s sloping main street – the village is in two parts, with a cluster of buildings near the river Rye at the bottom and another around The Owl at Hawnby pub, at the top – two things strike me. Firstly, light only shines where it is needed – over front doors, at gates, on the corners of buildings – and does not spread over the road, neighbours’ gardens or, crucially, up into the sky.
“Before, light was cast indiscriminately; up, down, left, right, in your face, but not on target when necessary,” explains Hawtin, adding that color – the Kelvin rating – is just as important. “The higher rating, around 6,000K, is bluer, and mimics daylight. It also diffuses more easily into the atmosphere, so there is more of a glow. Warmer light spreads less.” The combination of light bulbs with a lower Kelvin rating as well as targeted light fittings – swan necks or traditional carriage lamps – created a Christmas card-like golden glow that guided me through the village.
Some residents had reservations (the fixtures were paid for by the National Park, 50 to 75 percent of the total; the owners paid to install them), mainly regarding mobility and safety concerns. “They didn’t realize that so much light could come from something that shows,” says Hawkin. Passive security lights are still causing problems, I gathered from the locals, but they are being “fixed”.
My second revelation is how loud the countryside can be. I suspect this is because, with less visual distraction, my hearing is sharper. The stream next to the road sounds like a raging river, a single evening rider sounds like a posse, owls hooting sound close eerily, and a claxon of whirrs and squawks jump me into the middle of the road as one pheasant shoots out of it. the edge.
“Since they changed the lighting, an owl is tenpence,” says Paul Smith who lives down the hill from the pub. “I see a lot more out hunting, and at a lower level too.” There is much less glow, he says. “Before, coming off the main road from Helmsley, you could see the village lit up in the sky. He is much more discreet now.”
But between the lights it’s pitch-black – it’s my throw beacon for the Owl, where I’m waiting, the red telephone box on the other side, which opens a warm and welcoming fireside light. The flip side, of course, is that the night sky is gloriously unpolluted. “People forget that ‘artificial’ light is not what it sounds like,” says Lee Taylor, general manager of The Owl. “Even if it’s cloudy, the skies are still magical. If I go for a walk late at night and look up at that incredible sky, it clears the mind. It reminds me how insignificant I am.”
Paul Smith agrees. He and his 14-year-old daughter have now looked at the stars. “Before we had no interest but we could invest in a telescope,” he tells me.
Richard Darn, an amateur astronomer based in Yorkshire who knows the moors well, gave me stargazing tips. “Hawnby’s skies are very good,” he said enthusiastically. “Give yourself 20 minutes to adjust.” I walked from the pub, on the road by Hawnby Hill, trying to ignore the skeletal outline of the trees, all of which seemed to have grown frighteningly large. “Look south,” he said, “and you cannot fail to notice Orion. An hourglass shape with, top left, a distinctive red star – Betelgeuse – and diagonally across, bottom right, an extremely bright blue-white star, Rigel.” I try. But clouds are spoiling the view.
In clear conditions, Richard assured me, I would see Jupiter high in the southwest. And, if it was really clear, as I looked straight up, “that smudgy thing, a kind of hazy glow, is Andromeda, the nearest big galaxy to us.” It was not meant to be.
The next morning, I drop into the tiny shop in the village, which has been run by Sonia Leeman for over 20 years. Although they were casually stocked with everything from tomatoes to Tunnock cakes, there were no immediate plans to stock telescopes or binoculars. “You don’t need them, it’s so obvious,” says Sonia. “Very often you can catch the Northern Lights.” She takes out her phone to show me the pictures. With the village’s newfound status, those chances may have increased.
Helen Pickles was a guest at The Owl at Hawnby (01439 330180; theowhawnby.co.uk; Double bed & breakfast from £130) and North York Moors National Park (northyorkmoors.org.uk)
Things to do around Hawnby
North York Folk Festival of Dark Skies
Held this year from 9-25 February, with family-friendly events including stargazing sessions, night photography workshops and night adventure walks (darkskiesnationalparks.org.uk).
Walks
The North York Moors has around 1,400 miles of footpaths, some of which start from Hawnby. There is a fairly easy ascent up Hawnby Hill at the top of the village with sweeping moorland views. Other recommendations from North York National Park.
Helmsley
Seven miles from Hawnby this attractive market town offers a Norman Castle, a restored 18th century walled garden, independent shops, a weekly market as well as numerous tea rooms.
Rievaulx Abbey and Rievaulx Terrace
Romantic 12th-centennial ruins of one of the most powerful Cistercian monasteries in England (english-heritage.org.uk) with one of the most dramatic views from the 18th century Rievaulx Terrace above (nationaltrust.org.uk).
