by The transformation of Helsinki’s once-industrial Konepaja neighborhood is drawing visitors to this new cultural center, with hip bars and restaurants – and where the historic Folks Hotel is leading the way.
Where is he?
Konepaja is often described as the center of Helsinki’s ‘urban culture’ – but that doesn’t do justice to the architecture and historic feel of this former industrial zone, famous for building trains in the early 20th century. The area is an attention-grabbing mix of red brick factory buildings, modern apartments, trendy restaurants and cozy coffee shops.
The Puu-Vallila area is on the doorstep; a series of pleasant streets, lined with beautiful little wooden houses built for workers in 1913, in a garden-city area where locals walk their dogs and the music of birds drowns out any traffic. The bohemian Kallio district is easy to walk to, and Helsinki central station is a 20-minute tram ride and there’s a direct bus to the airport, although it’s even easier by taxi.
Style
Built in 1901, the Folks Hotel is the oldest building in the area and once housed the Pasila train factory, which built locomotives for the state railway. The owners took note of that history, preserving a large ceiling mural painted by railroad employees and leaving the factory clock to stop at the exact time the last worker left the building in the early Nineties.
But it’s the modern flourishes that stop it feeling like you’re sleeping in a museum – the clever neon-lit train tracks that run across the brick exterior, quirky antiques and minimalist works by local artists, such as ex- ice hockey player Ville Leino. Touches of original exposed brick are brought up to date through clever use of color – slates, rich teals, oranges, bright yellows. And, of course, the sauna. The feel is characterful, cozy and authentic, no doubt helped by the hotel – which opened in October 2020 – independent Finnish owners, rather than pretending to be all those things while being part of a group huge international. The service is friendly, helpful and very welcoming.
Which room?
The 146 rooms are more than a nod to the Ace hotel chain – the sort of sleek industrial chic aimed at aging hipsters looking to explore up-and-coming areas. If that sounds cynical, it’s not meant to be – this aging hipster loved the huge factory windows that looked out over the neighboring industrial buildings, the wooden floors , a Smeg mini-fridge and decent soft furnishings.
My boutique room was located in the historic building of the hotel, opposite the main reception and featured an impressive mural of the workers. Despite its industrial history, the comfortable feel – with a Tempur bed, soft shades of grey, terracotta and white, ceramic murals by the Finnish artist Laura Itkonen above the bed and, of course, a bathrobe and slippers – was essential for a visit on the. sauna. The hotel also offers rooms for single travelers – which are increasingly popular in Scandinavian cities – as well as those for couples and families, with bunk beds.
Food & drink
Eating and drinking at the Folks Hotel is a fair business. Some rooms have kitchenettes and the main building also has a large communal kitchen, with more Smeg appliances and even equipment if you care to bake something sweet (well, the Finns like their rice pudding topped with fruit, not to mention on the national obsession with licorice). There are oils, spices and guests often buy communal ingredients to share with others when their period is over – no wonder Finland has been voted the happiest nation in the world for seven years in a row.
Snacks and quick-style drinks are available in the lobby bar, at the main reception, and there is a gin and tonic hour most evenings. During the summer months Bar Alexis opens on the roof, with a curated cocktail menu. But my advice is to go downstairs to the atmospheric Albina Restaurant – which offers dinner from Tuesday to Saturday and where guests can enjoy breakfast every morning. Trust me, even at 8am, it feels like you’re deep in the bowels of the building – in a good way; lit briefly, with flickering candles bouncing off the exposed white bricks and pipework. Buzzy groups of local friends were enjoying the good bread, thick butter, pickles, fruit porridge and strong coffee (the only thing Finns love more than licorice in my experience) along with guests. It felt like I had been invited to a personal Scandi gathering, rather than a hotel breakfast buffet.
Facilities
Did I mention the sauna? Well, there is also a huge steam room. I had both myself and enjoyed the fine steam (Finnish term for the steam that rises from the sauna stove) before breakfast and after my evening meal — you only get a sauna here once a day. Rituals have cosmetics in these community areas. There is also a wellness centre, with a gym and a yoga room decorated with fairy lights. Massages and personal training can also be booked.
extra curricular
Visit the Folks Hotel in the summer and you might not want to go anywhere – every June, the owners organize a free music and food festival on the industrial grounds outside the building, which is becoming very much a local venue.
The location is great for walking to the nearby Kallio area, which has a huge Art Nouveau church (and as a local told me, sometimes raves), as well as vintage shops, bakeries and picturesque squares with more to drink coffee.
The Helsinki Exhibition Center and Olympic Park are only 15 minutes’ walk from the hotel. But to really immerse yourself in the local culture, head to one of the many public saunas. Kotiharjun is the only neighborhood sauna that is still heated in the traditional way, with wood. While Sompasauna is a community-run hippie-style waterside sauna that has to be seen to be seen — during the winter months, I recommend a dip in the hole cut out of the ice, before walking to the nearby Helsinki Distilling Company, in another. a cool industrial complex of restaurants and bars, to warm up with local whiskey.
It is best for…
Explore Helsinki off the beaten track and sample local life.
Details
Rooms at Folks Hotel Konepaja start at €220 per night, folkshotels.fi
