by Rising over 8,000 feet above the northern shore of Lake Chuzenji, Mount Nantai casts a perfect Mount Fuji-like shadow across the calm waters. At sunset the south face of the volcano turns a glorious, vivid pink. It took me a day to walk to the top and back, and in all that time I didn’t meet another soul.
I am in Nikko National Park, in Tochigi prefecture of Japan, at the base of three sacred peaks collectively known as Nikko Sanzan. The village of Okunikko remains very quiet as I sip a cup of sweet-scented tea outside one of the various rustic cafes overlooking the lake. I’m just over two hours from downtown Tokyo, but really, I have the place to myself.
That serene isolation would certainly not be the case if I were drinking tea under the real Mount Fuji, where the problem of overcrowding has forced the Japanese Ministry of Tourism to enact an “overtourism prevention plan”. The scheme is designed to attract visitors from tourist hotspots such as Kyoto, Osaka and Fuji to lesser-known rural areas – such as Tochigi.
Nikko National Park has escaped the worst of the crowds largely due to the foresight of the monks who own much of it. They consider the land sacred and maintain strict building regulations, which limit the size and number of hotels. Although restrictions have contributed to that sense of being off the beaten track, the region is struggling economically so the government’s initiative is expected to bring a little more investment. Those who venture here will be richly rewarded.
The town of Kinugawa, 20 minutes from the national park, has not shown the same concern for attracting tourists. During Japan’s boom years in the 70s and 80s, wealthy Tokyoites flocked there to luxuriate in volcanic hot springs (onsens). There was a frenzy of hotel construction, but when the recession hit Japan in the 90s, Kinugawa suffered more than most. Much of the Kinugawa River is now lined with large, rusting remnants of once vibrant resorts. The authorities are at a loss as to what to do with them. Some of the hotels have managed to stick to it, but the lack of visitors suggests that their days may also be numbered.
The young migrant worker at one such event informed me that, at the first or so available, only nine rooms were currently occupied. At another tall guesthouse by the river, I did not stay at the reception only to discover that the place had long since been abandoned; the owners just forgot, or didn’t care about locking up. As I wandered the gorgeous trails, it felt like the Marie Celeste passed by The ShiningOverlook Hotel. Even the dusty dining tables were set for a meal that never came.
The faded brutality of Kinugawa is fascinating in itself and I found the devastation almost at odds with the beauty of the surrounding area: monkey-inhabited mountains, gushing waterfalls and acres of pink cherry blossoms. I even encountered a bear scavenging for food along the river path.
For accommodation, I’d take the short funicular to the stylish, ultra-modern Kinugawa Kai hotel, an oasis of minimalist tranquility where you can overlook the carefully cultivated gardens from the comfort of your own.
Thanks to the monks, the charming town of Nikko – about two hours from Tokyo by train – has been saved from the architectural disaster heaped on Kinugawa. The stylish Fufu Nikko resort, with its own lush gardens, is just a short walk from the 17th-century Shinkyo Bridge, which is the entrance to the area’s main attraction, a huge complex of well-preserved shrines and temples that held the World Heritage. Site status since 1999.
Hongu Shrine, built during the Nara Period (710-794 AD), is one of the oldest and most beautiful, with its sweeping roof and finely sculpted red and gold friezes. According to legend, 127,000 expert craftsmen worked on the construction of the Nikko Toshogu Shrine, which was built during the Edo period to honor the famous gun Tokugawa leyasu. Look out for the funny motif of the three wise monkeys carved on the frieze.
The site can be busy at certain times of the day, but not in the same suffocated way that has become a concern in other parts of Japan. Whether the new initiative of the Ministry of Tourism changes remains to be seen.
I spoke with locals to learn their thoughts on the government’s plan to attract more tourists to Tochigi. An elderly Nikko resident was keen for building restrictions to remain in place. “You have seen what happened to Kinugawa,” he said. “I remember before the hotels came it was so magical. Now look at it.” An American expat and his Japanese wife who live in nearby Okunikko told me of their concerns about plans to build a Hyatt hotel on the shores of Lake Chuzenji: “We love how peaceful it is here and we’re worried that this sacred place will become destroy if there is a mass. tourism is allowed to run riot.”
During my time in Tochigi I didn’t meet one other European traveller, and at many attractions, such as the magnificent 19th century Nikko brewery and the picturesque Kegon Falls, I really had the run of the place. If Japan’s over-tourism scheme goes as planned, Tochigi could soon become another major tourist destination, so my advice is to enjoy the tranquility while you still can.
Advantages of Tochigi
James Innes-Smith was a guest at Finnair, which flies to Tokyo Haneda via Helsinki, with economy fares from £486, premium economy from £1,381 and business class from £3,316. Due to the closure of Russian airspace, planes bound for Tokyo are being diverted via the North Pole – increasing flight times by around four hours. So you might want to consider upgrading to business class.
Trains connect Asakusa station in Tokyo with Nikko and Kinugawa. The Nikko “All Area” pass (from £21) offers four days of unlimited rail and bus travel in the region, but you’ll need a car to visit more remote sites such as the abandoned mining town of Ashio, one of many in the region . a region of mass exploitation after demand for copper dried up in the 1970s. Today it is a very beautiful, if somewhat tragic place, with narrow streets and only a handful of residents. The mine closed in 1973 but you can take a guided tour around the claustrophobically narrow tunnels.
James has been a guest at the Ritz Carlton Nikko (doubles from £660), Kinugawa Kai (doubles from £104), Omo3 Asakusa Tokyo (doubles from £93), Omo5 Otsuka Tokyo (doubles from £83) and Fufu Nikko (doubles from £83) £477).
Spring is the perfect time to visit. Even Kinugawa’s crumbling hotels take their own poetic renown.
