by It wasn’t your traditional winter’s tale. But it was all the more special for him. I was dressed in a red and pink outfit that wouldn’t look out of place on one of Santa’s helpers. It was made only of polyamide and neoprene, and was designed to keep me dry if I fell into Lake Fuschl, whose waters hovered around 4C.
Despite the temperature and the season, I eschewed sleighs and skis and instead found myself paddling a stand into a stunning alpine vista. There was not a cloud in the sky; the sunlight rose from the snowy hills and the lake itself, which looked as if it had been swept from the Caribbean Sea. I could see trout fins through the crystal-clear, emerald green water. Grinding stupidly at the beauty of life, I flexed every muscle from my toes to my temples, put on my pad and tried – regardless of the elm’s outfit – not to fall in.
Winter SUP-ing (stand up paddle boarding) is new to Austria’s Fuschlsee in 2024. Something that seems to add to the activities program of the area, at the same time no skiing may be the new skiing.
More people than ever want the benefits of holidays in the snow – the soft silence, the immersion in winter nature, the magical views – without the crazy, high-adrenaline and environmentally-damaging aspects of traditional pistes. Mall holiday specialist Intravel has reported a 150 per cent increase in bookings for its off-peak snow holidays on last year.
“When the mountains are covered in snow, and the alpine views stretch out into the distance, there’s a certain sense of calm,” says Amber Welford of Intravel. “Being on the mountain is good for wellbeing and it also helps to gain a better perspective. Snow holidays for non-skiers are on the rise as more and more people are finding the benefits of this type of holiday that transcends the slopes.”
I’m not a skier. But I am time fans going out in the crisp mountain air, ideally afterwards kaiserschmarren and schnitzel. Motivated to see what all the noise was about, the non-skiing husband and I had taken the Nightjet sleeper from Paris to Salzburg to see if an Intravel activity break at the Hotel Seerose, in Fuschl could time See, nearby. Seriously be the best way to do winter, no downhill required.
Fuschl is low-key. There are no chairlifts or après-ski-rowdy bars here and it is more attractive for him. In the winter the emphasis in this Salzkammergut village is on hiking, snowshoeing, sightseeing – and, now, SUP-ing – among magnificent mountains. Actually, it’s a summer holiday, which means that unlike many alpine retreats, Hotel Seerose is cheaper in winter.
Walking through the doors felt like a warm hug. The Schocher family, who have run the hotel for years, know what they are doing. The decor is traditional, the accommodations are ready, the saunas are hot, hot, hot, the cozy rooms, the food is excellent and profuse – five courses every night, running from venison ragout to fresh lake charcuterie.
Of course, the weather was a bit wrong – but with no skiing on our schedule I wasn’t too worried. Fuschl sits at 2,200 feet (a height that would set off alarm bells for skiers). From January to March snow is almost a given, but come December, as we had, and the snow is hit-and-miss. “Last week was an amazing winter!” we were told, no help, as the rain was glooming on our first day. However, it’s rewarding to “go higher” – to spots like Hintersee, Postalm or the Zwölferhorn – and you’ll find snow even when there’s none down by the lake.
During the week, we had a mixed bag of conditions, but nobody stopped playing. Rain and shine, we followed the many designated winter hiking trails. We walked a peaceful circuit of Lake Fuschl, marveling at its unusual color even with clouds hanging heavy above it. We walked to the ruins of the castle of Wartenfels and the alarm of two chamois we did not hear in the softening fog. And we took a day trip to Bad Ischl – the hub of Salzkammergut’s tenure as Capital of Culture in 2024 – and hid from the changeable weather at the chandelier-hung Cafe Zauner, which has been serving a range of amazing cakes since 1832.
Then, on sun-drenched days, we climbed to the hidden Eibensee through forests with more white snow than Narnia. We wandered the delightful St. Gilgen Christmas market before following the pilgrims’ trail around Lake Wolfgang; we ended up in Strobl as the sun set over the town’s chestnut roast and a brass trumpet band. A higher climb, up the 5,000 foot Faistenauer Schafberg, was a tougher affair, every third step sinking deep into powder. But the day was too fine, the views too great, the joy too great not to do it. In hindsight, it might have been a good idea to hire snowshoes – easy to make locally.
Another bright afternoon we bussed up to Faistenau for something different – it was the closest we got to a pair of planks all week. Here, Karin Wieser-Linhart founded the Nordic Fun cross-country ski school and we were registered for a private lesson. Karin was enthusiastic about its benefits when facing the heat up. To get the body working and the blood pumping in the mountains, there is no better sport, she said. That is, if we could stay on our feet.
All positivity and swinging pony-tail, Karin was an excellent teacher, and soon we were sliding, albeit misguidedly, across the groomed tracks. The movement, in the hours when I nailed it, was smooth, crisp and highly addictive. And the views were spectacular: Faistenau sits in a bowl of hills and, as I slid back, I watched the low sun cast everything from the tree-covered slopes to the onion-domed church tower glowing pink. Then I fell on my face.
But no harm was done. And nothing that couldn’t be fixed with another gentle winter walk. Or swim in the Seerose indoor pool on the lake. Or a nice (and reasonably priced) warming glass of Austrian blaufränkisch. Now that’s my kind of hibernation.
Fundamentals
Intravel (01653 617000; inntravel.co.uk) offers seven nights at the Seerose Hotel from £1,035, half-board, including flights to Salzburg or from £1,520, including return sleeper train. SUP Box (sup-box.at) offers guided winter SUP-ing from €290 (£248) for two, including all equipment. Nordic Fun (nordic-fun.at) offers cross-country skiing lessons from €118 (£100) for two. For more information see austria.info
Sarah was a guest at Intravel.
Three of the best winter resorts for non-skiers
Jungfrau, Switzerland
Best for dizzy heights
No special skills, skiing or otherwise, are needed to reach the Top of Europe. The trains at Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe, have been up to 11,000 feet for over 100 years, finally offering the view of winter. In fact, it’s the excellent handling that makes this area so good for non-exploring skiers. Trains, mountain railways and cable cars connect spots like Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Interlaken and Wengen, from where you can access winter hiking and toboggan routes – including the longest toboggan run in Europe.
Book it: Skiline (020 8313 3999; skiline.co.uk) offers seven nights at Grindelwald’s Sunstar Hotel from £1,349, half-board, including flights and transfers.
Corvara, Italy
Best for a restaurant
Skiers love Alta Badia. But maybe biaies love it more? This delicious part of the Dolomites hosts many delicious winter events: Michelin-starred chefs create dishes for mountain huts, powder-snow breakfasts at sunrise (accessible by snowcat) and culinary experiences with local Latin bakers. Make Corvara your base: you’ll have easy access to the mountain cable car and Michelin-starred La Stüa de Michil. The new SkyAlps London-Bolzano flight makes it quicker to get there too (skyalps.com).
Book it: Ski Solutions (020 3504 6929; skisolutions.co.uk) offers seven nights at La Perla from £2,245, half board, including flights and transfers.
Samoens, France
Best for village vibes
Although within the Grand Massif ski area, the beautiful village of Samoëns has retained its own identity. In fact, it is the only winter sports resort in France classified as a “national heritage site”. People come not only for skiing, but to wander the old square and covered market. And for a cold dip: Samoëns hosted the 2023 World Ice Swimming Championships, and ice swimming courses are held at Lac aux Dames. Or, try cold yoga or winter rafting on the Giffre River.
Book it: Peak Retreats (023 9283 9310; peakretreats.co.uk) offers seven nights at La Residence Club Samoëns Village from £296 (five sharing), including Eurotunnel and self-catering apartment.
