by Wandering across ruined landscapes, steam rising from sky to lifeless sky, I could be in a dystopian nightmare. Darkness, rubble, sulphurous gases: that’s not the same as the sun, sea and sand that rule most people’s choice of holiday. But, like thousands of eager tourists, I would get a very rare glimpse of the fire within the bowels of Iceland.
Fagradalsfjall has been silent for over 6,000 years the first active volcano on the Reykjanes Peninsula in eight centuries. On 19 March 2021, a crack 180 meters long was visible in the ground and lava began to erupt from two craters. Activity in the area has been declining ever since.
Volcanic explosions usually signal an evacuation, but Fagradalsfjall has been declared a “tourism hotspot” and safe for the public to visit. Less than an hour’s drive from Keflavik international airport, it has attracted more than 680,000 tourists to date, according to data collected by the Iceland Tourism Board. Sightseeing helicopters hovered above rivers of molten magma and hikers in gas masks climbed hillsides after dark to witness nighttime electrical displays.
Therefore, it is not surprising that before Christmas there were signs that another eruption could occur on the peninsula with seismic excitement exceeding the Richter scale. “Book your flights now to see the World being created!” wrote the former president of Iceland Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson on X, formerly known as Twitter. But this time the world was not so easy. Houses are trapped by lava and it is a real threat to human life.
“I think this is the beginning of an unknown future – five eruptions in four years,” wrote Asa Steinars, a content creator, in his Instagram broadcast channel. It is clear that this is no longer a “tourism eruption”. But it begs the question: what?
Even when Fagradalsfjall was open, there were concerns about safety and independent travelers not following rules and guidelines set by authorities. Footage was circulated on social media the audience showed up almost bathing in a shower of hot rocks, and Steinars posted his own warning to his followers: “People are getting in the way [sic] close to this thing. I have seen craters like this followed by a waterfall.”
I, too, have seen some idiotic kamikaze-grade behavior. People were running over lava vents with drones to fill their social media feeds. It was ridiculous.
Gradually, people are willing to take more and more risks. And not only in Iceland.
There are currently more than 1,500 active volcanoes in 81 countries with around 60 erupting each year. Lava chasers can monitor the latest eruptions on the World Volcanism Program website, established by the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History. Volcano tours are regularly featured in holiday packages, tourism board marketing campaigns and cruise ship itineraries.
Ten years ago, as part of a tour of New Zealand, I visited Whakaari (also known as the White Island), a cone of smoke rising out of the ocean. Landing at the bottom of the crater, we were given gas masks and led through a toxic mosaic of swirling sulfur colors. It was beautiful and exciting, but I was relieved to leave. When I asked if it was safe, a guide reassured me that the scientists in charge knew what was going on. But even science can be based on nature. Tragically, 22 people were killed in an eruption in 2019, and the site has been closed ever since.
So what attracts us to these potentially dangerous places?
The thin line between passion and madness was explored in the National Geographic documentary Fire of Love, the story of French volcano couple Katia and Maurice Krafft who devoted their lives to a better understanding of volcanoes and dreamed of kayaking along a lava stream.
Not everyone is so extreme, but many of us are fascinated by the power of nature.
“[Volcanoes] they are primal and, ultimately, nature at its purest and rawest,” says Georgina Hancock, marketing director for tour operator Discover The World, which offers a ‘volcano hotline’ informing guests about possible trips to see eruptions as they occur. . “Even when a volcano stops erupting and there is no more molten lava, our clients are still intrigued to see the newly transformed landscape. The ability of the Icelandic people to survive and thrive on this ever-evolving island is of great interest to visitors.”
One of the highest active volcanoes in Europe, Mount Etna, attracts visitors with its “magnetic power”, according to Alberto Ciarallo, founder of Sicilian travel specialist Cognoscenti Travel. “It has a certain energy and presence,” he says. “Volcanoes take travelers back to prehistoric times.”
His journeys range from hiking with a volcanologist to an e-bike ride around the woods. “A healthy respect for the environment is absolutely essential,” Ciarallo insists. “I work with expert guides and volcanologists who are trained to ‘read’ conditions before planning any trip, and always use caution.”
Done right, responsible volcano tourism can be much safer than many other outdoor adventure activities. “Can skiing be safe? Can paragliding be safe? Can driving a car be safe? Nothing is safe, exactly,” says Dr Tom Pfeiffer, a geographer and volcanologist who runs dedicated volcano viewing tours through his company Volcano Adventures.
Joining an organized tour is definitely the safest way to see and enjoy a live volcanic event. Discover the World insists that their clients only visit sites with a qualified guide and are unlikely to offer trips to the latest eruption. It is also necessary to use a licensed operator for insurance coverage.
“There is no specific exclusion for travel cover for volcano tourism or taking part in a volcano tour, but cover may be invalid if travelers fail to take reasonable care or act in a way that could endanger their safety or putting his own property at risk,” says Jonathan Frankham, the bore. general manager for UK and Europe at travel insurance company World Nomads. “It is important to follow any official advice or warning against travel.”
Admittedly, part of the attraction of volcanoes is their volatile nature and unpredictability. Every time I crawled over lava fields or went on the slopes of a crater, I was always humbled and – if I’m honest – a little scared. But a little fear is healthy; it is a recognition of the power of nature, of which respect is an integral part. We should all know our human limits and know when it’s time to back off – or risk paying a price that many have paid before.
