by With Christmas cheer comes dress codes to wrangle, and the classics can be the hardest to nail down.
What exactly is the difference between black tie and white tie? How long or short should you go with your dress? What style of jacket should you wear? Well, here’s your crash course guide (with a little help from Debrett’s trusty etiquette guide) to save you from all the wrong reasons.
What is the black tie dress code for men?
According to Debrett’s, a dinner jacket made from barathea (an incredibly soft silk, wool and cotton blend) or ultra-fine herringbone will be the ultimate men’s black tie look.
The jacket should be single-breasted or double-breasted with silk peak lapels (or shawl collar) and covered buttons.
White dinner jackets are also traditionally worn for black tie in warm climates, but not usually in Britain.
A traditional tie also features a white evening shirt in marcella, a slightly tougher cotton fabric, with bib detailing and double cuffs. The shirt should have a turn-down collar (not a wing collar) and should be worn with a collar.
Smart black tie trousers should have a natural taper, and (if you’re a true black tie purist) one row of braid down the outside of each leg.
As for the black tie itself? Debrett advises men to choose a head that is proportional to the size of the head, to avoid a comical look. A man’s black tie look is usually completed with a white handkerchief in the left breast pocket and polished black shoes.
Optional pieces of black tie attire include cummerbunds and waistcoats – although the two should never be worn together.
What is the black tie dress code for women?
Women tend to have more flexibility with a black dress code, although Debrett advises women to avoid “tight ‘red carpet’ dresses” or “those with dramatic cleavage” as they can be uncomfortable or inappropriate at a formal event that involves a reception. and sit down dinner.”
A dress can be full length or knee length, but not shorter, and only a little décolletage should be exposed. Trousers are another acceptable option for women, but Debrett recommends a palazzo cut (flared from the waist), rather than anything too fitted.
Clothing jewelery or simple bracelets and necklaces are most suitable, instead of anything too bling (diamonds are best reserved for white tie).
Tiaras don’t seem to want a black tie either (just in case you happen to have one lying around). Although the dress code is ‘black tie’, dresses do not have to be black, unless specifically stated on the invitation.
What is the white tie dress code for men?
White tie is known as ‘full evening dress’ or informally as ‘tails’.
Before the Second World War, it was the regular evening dress for gentlemen. Today, a white dress code is usually maintained for presidential dinners, state dinners with royalty and traditional events such as Le Bal Des Debutantes in Paris.
As one of the rarest dress codes you’ll see on an invitation, even celebrities find it hard to nail the look. Anna Wintour revealed that many of her male guests at the 2014 Met Gala barely showed up when she challenged that year’s request. Speaking on Late Night with Seth Meyers, she said she had “no idea how big the panic was [the dress code caused] that would make men in New York, and around the world, think about their outfits.”
That year Benedict Cumberbatch “proposed” according to Wintour, no doubt helped by the designer Tom Ford being with him. Ford, who hosted many male stars that evening, told Wintour in an email that “hundreds of men were coming in and asking him to explain what white tie was” that year.
Unlike black tie, there’s little room for style maneuvering here. Men must ensure that their suit includes a single-breasted black tailcoat in black wool (barathea) or ultra-fine herringbone with silk lapels, worn without a button.
The coat is shorter at the front than a morning coat, and is paired with black trousers with a natural taper and two lines of braids down the outer leg.
The white tie shirt in marcella should come with a detachable wing collar with starch and double tucks, and will usually be fastened with studs, rather than buttons.
The shirt is then worn under a low-cut white marcella evening waist (double or single breasted). To complete your white tie look, wear a thin, hand-tied white tie.
Put your best foot forward in black patent lace-up shoes, finished with black laces (although black ribbon if you want something really traditional) and black socks. And if you want to stray into Downton Abbey territory, black hats, overcoats and white silk scarves are allowed.
What is the white tie dress code for women?
The white tie rules for women are not as strict as the black tie rules, but the main requirement is a full-length ball gown or ball gown. A ‘good’ Debrett ball gown design will feature a fitted bodice with a full skirt that reaches the ground. It means that the power suits usually have to sit these occasions.
Traditionally, women have also worn long gloves at white balls, but the need has decreased over time. Gloves should be worn when arriving at an event or on the receiving line (shaking hands with the host) and dancing, but should be removed when eating and at the dinner table.
And now is the time for you to go out on the jewelery frontier – take a page out of the Princess of Wales’ book, and cover yourself in the family diamonds.
Shop the look
A black friend for men
Mr P
Mr P, Shawl-Collar Tuxedo Jacket, £375, mrporter.com
Mr P
Mr P, Slim-Fit Tuxedo Trousers, £195, mrporter.com
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren, Poplin Tuxedo Shirt, £380, ralphlauren.co.uk
Moss Bros
Moss Bros, Black Silk Bow Tie, moss.co.uk
Jaeger
Jaeger, Pure Silk Cummerbund, £45, marksandspencer.com
Black tie for women
Zara
Zara, velvet midi dress, £35.99, zara.com
Coast
Coast, Premium Hourglass Silhouette Blazer, £143.20, coastfashion.com and Premium Flare Trousers, £87.20, coastfashion.com
Piferi
Piferi, Ursula 100 heels, piferi.com
A white friend for men
Moss Bros
Moss Bros, Bespoke Tailored Jacket, £129, moss.co.uk
Russell & Bromley
Russell & Bromley Lace Up Shoes, Sinatra Patent Derby, £225, russellandbromley.com
Apostle of London
Aspinal London, Double Domed Sterling Silver Engraved Cufflinks, £150, aspinaloflondon.com
Moss Bros
Moss Bros, White Marcella Self Tie Bow Tie, £20, moss.co.uk
John
Eton, White Piqué Tie Shirt, £200, etonshirts.com
White friend for women
Reiss Atelier
Reiss Atelier Duchess Satin Cape Maxi Dress, £595, reiss.com
Needle & Thread
Needle & Thread, Lisette Ruffle Off Shoulder Dress, £500, needleandthread.com
Jimmy Choo
Jimmy Choo, Sacora 100 Faux-Pearl Tulle Sandals, £650, matchesfashion.com
