by From the drizzly tarmac on an Essex afternoon, we had a few minutes to kill before take off. Flowing gently through the inflight magazine, dreams of mountain wellness hotels and powder slopes filled the air. Then it was, in black and white, on high quality recycled paper, exclamation mark included.
“The flight itself is a holiday!”
Fighting words, from the three-year-old president of Bolzano-based SkyAlps, Josef Gostner. The Italian entrepreneur, renewable energy magnet and licensed pilot himself, is behind the push to provide British skiers with a faster way to reach the beautiful Crayola-box Dolomites, along with a high-end flying experience.
SkyAlps’ first winter service left London Stansted for Bolzano on December 13 and promises to revolutionize ski holidays in the underrated region. More personal service, better refreshments, fewer passengers and a destination airport that leaves you as close as 40 minutes from piste and paseggiata.
When it comes to creating that private-plane feeling, little luxuries count. We got off to a good start with a queue-free check-in desk. Here, I also tackled another hindrance to the ski traveler: bulky luggage. Although it was a three-day trip, my bag weighed 16.5kg, more than the 15kg allowance that comes with a normal fare. Nobody batted an eye. “We’re not a budget airline, so we try to be helpful,” said SkyAlps representative Daniela Lintner as she handed over my boarding pass with a smile.
Settling in was painless. The seats are configured two-by-two, curing the dreaded middle-seat situation. There were about 60 empty seats and plenty of overhead space for less than two dozen passengers. Among them were some Italians going home and a young professional from London meeting her family for a ski holiday. In the absence of any entertainment system or Wi-Fi, my seat 16A on the port side had a very exciting view of the underside of the wing and one of the plane’s two six-bladed propellers.
A determined thrum filled the cabin as the twin engines powered up for departure at 16:05. The Canadian-manufactured Dash DHC-8 Q400 is intended to be one of the quietest turboprop aircraft in the skies. The Q may stand for “quiet”, but the powered takeoff has a higher frisson factor than your run of the mill jet. By the time we leveled at 25,000 feet, it was approaching five o’clock and, on our day-off flight, all thoughts turned to après ski in the sky.
Rather than asking for payment for the usual hot refreshments, the friendly waiter handed me a printed wine menu. It was a no-nonsense field: the wines of South Tyrone were served with ease – two whites, a red and a bubbly. The snacks were local, too: from a region renowned for quality cuisine born of the Italian flare, we grazed on Loacker biscuits, full-fat yoghurt and fennel-flavored Schüttelbrot (a crunchy regional bread). Drinks and nibbles are complimentary, and they came around more than once.
Let us now consider the value. This isn’t a low-cost airline – a one-way fare starts at €184 (£159) – but it’s no Gulfstream either. Despite having only one toilet and seats that don’t deteriorate, when trying to deliver a great push of luxury, it might be worth investing in the moment of arrival alone.
Enter the terminal which is practically private. After two hours and 30 minutes in the air, landing at Aeroporto di Bolzano on the edge of the vine felt stylish and comfortable unlike the human-processing plant vibe of some “classy” airports. Apart from a small number of SkyAlps flights, the only other flight operating here is “general aviation”, better known as the occasional Zurich banker boarding his private plane. After a quick passport check, I was out the door – completely missing the baggage carousel already rotating with our stuff. A nice man delivered them minutes later.
This premium living sets one up neatly for the main event. Touchdown plus 40 minutes drive, you are in the resort of Val Gardena, then many options after that. First it’s Selva, then a bit further on Alpe di Siusi, Kronplatz and Corvara, where I was enjoying creation in the traditional Sassongher Hotel 90 minutes after landing.
Each of these beautiful villages is part of the 1,200km of linked Dolomiti Superski skiing – a tangle of smooth white slopes that, if extended, could run the length of the country itself. But that is only half the story. These uncrowded bolts – including La Villa, San Cassiano and Colfosco together to form the Alta Badia region – are where gastro-ski is of Roman proportions.
As part of Alta Badia’s resort-wide A Taste for Skiing dining initiative, eight mountain establishments offer gourmet dishes created by another Michelin-starred Italian chef, using fine South Tyrolean produce and accompanying local wines. Dishes cost from €21 (£18) – like the mushroom and sausage cappuccino soup I enjoyed at Ütia Bioch. A good mountain lunch doesn’t get much better. Or does it?
Blink and you’ll miss Col Alto, located below the top gondola station and overlooking a medley of Dolomite peaks. Order a deluxe sampler of starters featuring trout, trout and foie gras, with elevated bread baskets. Lush last lunch with a border on the last running house, wing and swim under the pink luster of the Dolomite setting sun. The holidays are in the air, after all.
Fundamentals
SkyAlps operates twice-weekly (Wednesday and Sunday) flights between London and Bolzano from €184 (£159) each way. Fifty percent discount for children between two and 11 years old, children under two go free. Hotel Sassongher offers rooms from €300 (£259) per night, half board, based on two sharing. For more information on Corvara and Alta Badia.
Find more of the best ski resorts in Italy in our guide.
