by Samata Pattinson, CEO and founder of cultural sustainability organization Black Pearl, played a key role in developing the program for the first ever culture and entertainment pavilion at COP28 – the 28th United Nations Climate Change conference held in Dubai in Christmas 2023. The program put fashion and culture on the agenda at COP for the first time.
Pattinson hosted multiple panels with representatives from leading luxury brands, including Prada, Gucci and Versace; she interviewed Ellie Goulding about climate action in a fireside chat; and hosted the COP28 Global Action exit event.
Below, she shares the key takeaways from the global summit, and how this will impact consumers and the wider fashion industry in 2024.
When fashion finally entered the agenda at COP28
The first UN COP summit, an annual meeting that brought together global stakeholders to tackle climate change together, took place in Berlin in 1995, and has continued every year since. However, despite increased awareness of the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry, it is surprisingly still missing from COP discussions.
However, for the 2023 edition, fashion finally appeared and took a seat at several tables. Sustainable celebrities were able to contribute to the conversations taking place in Dubai, from influential names such as Stella McCartney and Ellen MacArthur to pioneering organizations such as Fashion Revolution and the Global Fashion Agenda, as well as some of the most forward thinking brands. -ups and content innovators.
While the overall results of the summit showed insufficient and slow action to combat climate impacts, the conversations highlighted the various solutions needed to transition to a more sustainable fashion industry – from circular solutions such as rental and resale, offering a way for fashion enthusiasts enjoy novelty without increasing over-consumption, for brands that prioritize durable products and take responsibility for their end-of-life (known as the Extended Production Responsibility scheme). A wider discussion also focused on the role of policy and investment in increasing positive impact.
But for many the question remains: why is it vital for the fashion industry to actively participate in these conversations?
Here are five fashion takeaways to note from the summit:
1/ The fashion industry is too dependent on Fossil Fuels
We all know that fossil fuels are a big part of the problem, but how many of us are aware of how dependent the fashion industry is on fossil fuels? Apart from the huge amount of coal and gas used in the production of our clothes, more than 50 percent of our clothes are made from polyester, which is derived from oil. Campaigns such as Fossil Fuel Fashion (led by Iranian-American social entrepreneur and activist Sophia Kianni), are working to raise awareness of fashion’s dependence on oil, and the importance of scalable alternatives to pure polyester. This is an important topic to pursue as it plays a key role in fashion’s role in helping to mitigate climate change, and will see the material composition of our clothing change over time.
2/ We must all act to support biodiversity
At this year’s summit, a critical concern came to light: the fashion industry’s dependence on biodiversity – essential to human life and raw materials. The ‘Bee The Change’ campaign, led by ethical clothing brand Pangaia and the Trillion Bees alliance, was launched at COP28, highlighting the complex link between clothing, biodiversity and pollinators, emphasizing their central role in global ecosystems . The campaign is dedicated to preserving bees and other pollinators, and many other businesses are now joining the effort. Fashion directly affects these winged insects through human-induced factors such as pesticides, habitat loss and climate change. Expect collections inspired by nature that connect outfits with their origins extensively; in this case, with bees showing up on clothes, at restaurants and even airports around the world.
3/ Relevant innovation, smart design and circular business models are key
Material innovation and intelligent design remain high on fashion’s priority list in the move towards more sustainable and circular practices. Shoppers will continue to see a steady flow of innovative new-gen alternatives to traditional materials, as well as an increase in the use of recycled fibers. This focus was demonstrated at COP28 through the Stella McCartney Sustainable Market that reflects this change, showcasing innovative materials such as grape-based leather and tree cellulose skins. In collaboration with LVMH, the exhibition revealed transformative technologies — used by start-ups to established brands — offering plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal leather and fur, and regenerative alternatives to traditional fibres.
The shift towards circular fashion could also redefine the shopping experience for citizens. Instead of being focused solely on buying new items, shoppers may be embracing a fashion ecosystem where renting and refurbishing high-end garments becomes the norm – allowing access to high-end clothing without the commitment of ownership. Luxury brands are increasingly introducing repair and restoration services to their premium collections, encouraging customers to look after their clothes and pass pieces on to the next generation. This shift encourages a more sustainable approach to consumption and calls for creative collaboration through an environmentally conscious approach to fashion exploration and healthy reuse.
4/ The fashion industry is key to promoting a sustainable culture
Fashion often takes culture for trends without really understanding or respecting it, seeking opportunities for sustainable solutions. Brands should look at citizens’ cultural backgrounds – including socioeconomics, ethical values, and ethnicity – fostering genuine connections and understanding what sustainability looks like through different perspectives. By expanding concerns beyond the operational impact on people, fashion can shape cultural values towards sustainability, setting an example and prioritizing various sustainable practices around the world.
My new cultural sustainability organization, Black Pearl, hosted a discussion at the Entertainment + Culture Pavilion of COP28, engaging with activists, the African Biodiversity Network, and even Ellie Goulding. These talks highlighted the power of fashion, music and culture in connecting with global audiences on climate change through personalized storytelling, transformative impact, and uplifting voices from the Global South.
5/ We all have a role to play in driving positive change
Interconnectedness between people and the environment is vital, and the demand for fashion brands to reflect values has increased. In the coming year, brands will prioritize citizen engagement, engaging their communities, and seeking feedback and insight. Shoppers now seek a representation of their perspective on what is being done and how, moving from playing the passive role of consumer to participating members of the public.
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