by Like most handmade shoes from Northampton, Crocket & Jones footwear is beautiful and will last you a lifetime. I visited the company’s factory, and it’s exactly what you’d expect from a 145-year-old English shoemaker: hulking and grand in a Dickensian way; scented by rich leathers and suedes, strong breakfast tea, and motor oil; a team of highly skilled people who have practiced their craft since they were teenagers.
But the shoes start at around £650 and go up to almost £1,500. For most people that price is hard to fathom, let alone justify. So why does luxury footwear cost so much? And is there a way to get high quality without breaking the bank?
“A pair of quality shoes is defined by the materials used, the construction method, and the attention to detail in the craftsmanship,” says Sebastian Öhrn, founder of Swedish shoe brand Myrqvist, where a pair of handmade cap-toe calf leather oxfords. An amazingly low £319. A quality shoe starts with the leather, according to Öhrn. Full-grain calfskin—the type of leather that’s light and supple—is best because it’s durable and develops an elegant patina over time, he said.
High Quality Shoe Details
Shoe construction is “critical,” Öhrn explains. One phrase in particular is a sign of excellence: “Goodyear welt,” which refers to a labor-intensive shoe-making process that has become a byword for quality. Simply put, a Goodyear welt is a layer of leather sewn between the upper (the body of the shoe) and the outsole (the hard material on the bottom of the shoe) that offers both a waterproof layer and the ability to Outsole is easily replaceable. if/when it wears out.
You can get Goodyear welted shoes at Edward Green, Carmina, John Lobb, Alden, and they will all be at the top of the price spectrum, around the £700 mark. But you can get welted shoes at Meermin (£200 ), Morjas (£380) and Dr Martens (£150). Even a J Crew welted Goodyear derby sells for just over £200.
“It’s important to note that while the Goodyear welt is a strong indicator of quality, it’s not a guarantee,” says Öhrn, who suggests that it can sometimes be used as a marketing tool. “Alternate construction methods, like the Blake stitch [an alternative to Goodyear welting]it can also produce a quality shoe when executed with the right materials and expertise.” For example, the French cult brand Paraboot is a proud proponent of the “Norwegian” welt, which was first developed for walking footwear.
But it takes more than a great shoe welt. In cheaper shoes, inner leather components are often replaced with synthetic alternatives—in the construction of the heels, for example—and some use a glue-based construction to cut corners. Quality shoes will have a layer of cork under the insole, which is the part that attaches to your foot, for extra cushioning, as well as a wooden “shank” under the arch of the foot to maintain the flexibility of the shoe over time. Neither shoe will likely be cheaper.
Other details to look out for include a blunted “noble corner” on the inside corner of the heel, which is no longer used, but was originally used to stop your cuffed trousers from riding up your shoe Öhrn also recommends a well-shaped “last”. The “end” is the master model around which the uppers of each shoe are molded in the production process, and brands keep their various models secret. They are like watch references or vintages of Champagne in that some vintages are more popular than others. Some of them are even famous. The last Crockett & Jones 325, for example, has been around for two decades and is known for longevity and comfort. If you buy custom shoes (which will cost you thousands of dollars), you will have your own unique last that the shoe company keeps – says John Lobb – indefinitely, ready for you to order your next pair.
A well-crafted last will be created with care and attention, designed for full wear, or for more specific foot shapes. When buying expensive shoes, ask the seller about the last one, what it offers, and how it differs from others in the range.
You should consider the one, too. The assumption is that dress shoes have thin leather soles, while more casual or harder shoes have “knocked out” rubber soles. That’s more or less true—you wouldn’t wear a rubber-soled shoe with a tux, for example—but not exclusively, and some of my favorite dress shoes have chunky rubber soles. In fact, I prefer the durability (and extra half inch of lift) they offer. Paraboot is great for chunky tires, and British brands Tricker’s and Grenson have both explored more avant-garde tire shapes in recent years. The latter have a great new derby pair in “oily” brown suede (£550) which are really good.
High Quality Shoes for Under £400
Ultimately, you will have to spend some money for a really good pair of shoes. You could hunt down a pair of boots for under £100, but the leather will be crap and the stitching (if any) will open in no time. People—like myself, for example—talk easily and often about “investment” pieces, and it can be frustrating to say that if you want something good you’ll spend a month’s wages, but there’s an old saying that says , “buy well, buy once,” and it’s true when it comes to shoes.
The good news is that there are quality shoes that won’t send you into spiraling credit card debt. Here are 10 great pairs of dress shoes under £400.
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