by This week more than most, we’ve been hearing a certain word being said in fashion circles. Along with “janties”, “Hedi Slimane” and “felts”, perhaps a less well-anticipated word – or, at least, not so cheerful – was taking up airtime: persistence. It comes on the back of Primark’s new Sustainability Framework, which the fast fashion giant says is “designed to set the bar for how retailers can extend the life of their clothes – meaning our customers can love their clothes and finally spend. longer”.
“Durability should not be an asset,” continued the retailer. But while there’s no doubting the importance of extending the life of clothes – figures from environmental NGO WRAP show that using an item for nine months can reduce its carbon, waste and water footprint by up to 30% – a model Primark business designed to sell. masses of clothing at very low prices, arguably encouraging a “buy once, wear once” attitude. Little wonder, then, that Patrick Duffy, founder of the Global Fashion Exchange, describes the ad as “a textbook example of greenwashing” and “nothing more than a marketing tactic to boost their image polishing”.
“It is tempting that Primark would enter these murky waters,” says Orsola de Castro, co-founder of Fashion Revolution and creative director of agency Estethica. “Of course their products are durable,” she says. “Any product that contains a huge amount of polyester is permanent, as it will take hundreds of years to decompose in a landfill.”
A truly sustainable fashion brand, according to Duffy, would “give priority to high-quality, long-lasting materials such as organic cotton, wool, or recycled fibers, avoiding the cheap, synthetic fabrics that are mostly fast fashion.”
Of course, Primark is not alone. “The reality is that … fast-fashion giants thrive on fast production cycles, cheap labor and low-quality materials,” Duffy said. “The idea that their products can be long-term without overhauling their entire supply chain is enticing.” But many fast fashion brands have been at the forefront of efforts to look greener. In 2022, Boohoo was criticized for appointing Kourtney Kardashian as a “sustainability ambassador”, and in 2023 a group of influencers took part in a trip sponsored by Shein where they toured the company’s “innovation center” in China.
So, in search of truly durable and more sustainable clothing, we asked the experts for tips on choosing clothes that will really stand the test of time. Whether you’re on the hunt for a new pair of long-lasting jeans, mulling over a puffer jacket you hope will last the coming winter or rummaging in a charity shop for vintage finds made to combat the aging process, read on face.
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‘Jeans will be with elastane throw out faster’
A sweater with elastics breaks down in the thigh and crotch areas and needs to be repaired after one year. Standard denim may last more like two or three years before needing repair.
The hardest wearing denim is Japanese selvedge. It takes time to sink in but it lasts longer. Brands such as Edwin, Nudie, Naked & Famous, Iron Heart and Joe & Co Denim all make high quality selvedge denim. – Michael Pendleburyfounder Doctor Denim
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‘When it comes to jackets, a quality zip is your first priority – and shop in person’
The main reason we see jackets fail is the zip, so a good quality one is your first priority. Check if it is branded – YKK or Opti is best. Avoid waterproof coil or two-way zips, as these don’t last as long and aim for a size 5 or more on a main zip. The size should be marked on the back if branded.
Depending on why you are buying your jacket, you will need to look for different materials. Lightweight won’t last as long, but if you need it to be ultralight, that’s an option. Fabric is graded by weight and, generally, heavier is stronger. Brand names like Gore-Tex or Cordura are often a good sign and older technology fabrics like canvas, waxed cotton and leather are probably the most durable. A good sign is topstitching – when a seam line is reinforced and visible on the outside of a garment. Avoid zips, pockets or stuck-in hems, which often fail, especially after washing.
Shopping in person is always more reliable. Don’t be afraid to put the content in the store. Try a “pill test” by rubbing the fabric to see if it wears. Pull all the zips, poppers and seams – better to break it in the shop than yourself! And if it breaks, complain. We will ensure quality by asking first. – Rosanna Watson, founder of Snowdonia Gear Repair
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‘Vintage shop – and always look inside’
You’ll always find something more unique and interesting when you shop vintage – extra attention to detail because they weren’t mass-produced to the levels they are today. Always look inside – check the pockets, is the lining torn? But remember, even if something is damaged, a good fitter or local dry cleaners can usually fix, repair or even restore it. – Kim, co-founder of Vintage Sisters
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‘Always check the hinges of the glasses’
Choose acetate (plastic) frames over injection molded plastic – acetate frames usually have metal backing down the sides and will feel heavier. Metal frames are durable, but much more susceptible to scratching and harder to repair. Also, always check the hinges – plastic hinges tend to fall off, but a metal hinge can break over time but can be repaired. – Jo Skelton, co-founder of Peep Eyewear
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‘Welted boots are less likely to fail’
Look out for welted boots – boots where the connection between the upper and the outsole is sewn all the way to the shoe. Stitching provides extra reinforcement to the construction, so your shoe is less likely to fail. It can also make them much easier to repair.
Leather uppers are usually more durable than synthetic, which is a shame for vegans but, at least, it’s true. Leather uppers tend to be much more durable as well. Keep them in great condition by using shoe creams, balms and oils to hydrate the leather, keep the surface looking healthy and help prevent water damage. I change shoe creams and oil and clean my boots about once a month. – Jamie Whitehouse, The Boot Repair Company
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‘Give yourself the choice to take pieces in or out’
Consider sizing up so that a seamstress can make adjustments to allow the fit to be comfortable [if your size fluctuates over time]. The high street in particular, to further reduce manufacturing costs, will use the smallest amount of fabric possible and often the dress size we feel will not fit comfortably because the cut of that piece does not allow any room for flexibility or movement . If you have excess fabric at the seam and the running stitches are straight and neat, you have options to take that piece in or out. – Donna Tweedalepersonal stylist
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‘True vintage items have double hems’
If you’re not sure if something is vintage or reproduction, look at the stitching or hem of the garment. True vintage items are often finished with a double hem, but vintage is only reproduced once and sometimes too locked to finish. – Faye Wagstaffefounder Gal Charity Shop
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