by MILAN – Call him Milan adapted A week. The Spring 2025 presentation staged here last week featured a range of sartorial codes, from new proportions to flamboyant embellishments. WWD rounded up seven takes on tailoring – one for each day of the week.
Brioni
When executive design director Norbert Stumpfl officially introduced the La Donna women’s line earlier this year, he said he wanted Brioni men and women to be on the same level. He reiterated the concept at the brand’s spring presentation, which showed how he is slowly opening up to more feminine textures and shapes rather than just re-adjusting men’s codes on women’s wear.
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Next-level fabrics for which the brand is known – from lightweight wool to high-end silk and crepe – have been used to deliver lightness and movement in uncomplicated and roomy silhouettes, as seen in a silk trench coat, a cabin jacket cut in couture -. like the A line or the way Stumpfl opened the sides of a tailored coat for added ease. Classic suits and blazers were a no-brainer, but Stumpfl also experimented with bolero versions, whose graphic proportions contrasted with the overall elongated silhouettes and marked “a big change for us,” as he said.
Other eye-catching pieces included a statement black evening jacket encrusted with 8,000 tiny crystals hand-knotted with silk thread in a nod to the first gesture in garment making. The technique was replicated in a red carpet-worthy extra-long cream tuxedo jacket.
Blazé Milano
Coolest-girls-in-town Corrada Rodriguez d’Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Maria Sole Torlonia, who recently laid down roots in Milan opening their first flagship project, further expand their sartorial life for spring 2025. Relying on natural colors which includes from im. and hazelnuts to dusky pinks and pops of coral, the lineup showcased both tailoring cut in new proportions and fluid separates – such as leopard print frocks, slipdresses and fluid sarong-like skirts – that completed the look and aimed at warmer temperatures.
Highlights included the matching Shamo bolero jacket and Appaloosa miniskirt, both made from Gipsy elm fabric for a raffia-reminiscent effect and resulting in a totally youthful look that could work from day to night. The same cropped suit was also rendered in a chocolate shade version with white profiles that were extremely chic. Ditto for a stand-up suit covered in sequins with a buttercup and contrast detailing to emphasize the jacket’s collarless shape and the brand’s signature half-moon Smiley pockets.
Ketinn
Celebrating the first ten years of presentation at Palazzo Kiton in Milan with an evening event, the mood was very happy, as Maria Giovanna Paone, creative director of the womenswear department, continues to build the segment every season . For the spring, she talked about the pleasure of traveling but also of coming home. In fact, there was the Neapolitan tradition of Kiton, with his double-breasted suits that were perfectly tailored, although they were softer on the body, blending them with impressions picked up from the trips around the world, including the heavy brush stripes on the sleeveless soft silk obi-like dress. .
Massimo Alba
Renowned for his soft colors, fabrics and tailoring, Massimo Alba sees his clothes as ageless, ageless and trendless, and wants people to feel good and relaxed in them. His most recent collection featured a double-breasted linen peacoat in light cream, and a long light linen topcoat in a similar shade.
Alba argued that the coat could work as easily on the beach – over a bathing suit – as it would on a summer dress. Other key pieces from his collection included sheer striped tops that could work just as well on the beach, and cork lined trousers in a variety of colours.
Eleven years
Eleven continued to expand its tailoring offering around soft, laid-back silhouettes — the feminine suit coming in more formal single-breasted iterations paired with roomy, pleated trousers and knit supports or in inventive combinations of belted trousers and sleeve dusters , something brand new. an alternative to blazers. Paired with a tonal silk blouse, a mauve pink double-breasted jacket added an interesting twist to sartorial khaki pants, while versatile lightweight linen blazers were styled with casual cargo pants or over waistcoats in contrasting colors for a modern interpretation of the three-piece suit. . The brand, which has just signed a men’s capsule collection for Holt Renfrew, has worked to round out its womenswear offering, currently generating between 25 and 30 percent of global sales, taking Lurex with evening wear designs, a developing category that included attractive slippers.
In Su Phi
At Sa Su Phi, founders Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco celebrated women’s leadership, “and all women who make a difference.” This empowerment does not exclude femininity as they showed fluid and soft dresses as well as deconstructed suits, with knitwear the common denominator when the brand was launched for the first time two years ago. In their view, the suit is a tool of self-expression and is often worn with cashmere or silk knits to offer a more relaxed look. Pants and skirts were made with men’s fabrics but nothing was restrictive. Powerful can also be comfortable.
Slow clothes
Slowear, a soft-fitting specialist, is expanding its womenswear offering, now created alongside menswear. The brand’s store in Forte dei Marmi, on the Tuscan coast, is one of the first to show both collections together. “It’s one world in one space,” said Piero Braga, the brand’s chief executive officer.
Highlights included a pastel pink combed jacket, and a series of double-breasted jackets in traditional men’s fabrics such as chalk stripe, herringbone and windowpane, worn with trousers or tailored trousers. There was also more casual fare in the form of cotton khaki and field jackets and a belted shantung style as easy as a dressing gown.
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