The hottest coat of the new season may already be hanging in your wardrobe. Or, more precisely, in your boot room. That’s why the barn coat is the leading style this autumn – the boxy, waxed jacket with deep pockets and a puffy collar, thrown on in a hurry when you’re going for a walk with a muddy dog or for fieldwork. Alexa Chung has been a poster girl for looks since the Noughties, when she popularized it as a festival outfit, going on to launch a collaboration with Barbour, while Dua Lipa is a new convert, wearing hers during her stay in Britain recently.
Someone who loves her original barn jacket is Ali Stearn, a mother of two who lives on a farm in Norfolk. “I live in mine,” says Stearn, who travels the country with his little ponies, Mr. Jack Brock. “I love that there are pockets big enough to keep horse nuts and burr string for those emergencies around the place. They’re also great for popping into the pub, dog in tow, with pockets big enough for a hip flask, dog lead and riding gloves. And they clean up nicely for another country hobby. I’ve had my Chrysalis field coat for 15 years!”
Also rather chicly known as the French workman’s jacket, thanks to its origins in rural France in the 19th century, as well as the (less chic) British donkey jacket, the barn coat is a staple of the country suite’s wardrobe. for over a century. But they probably never expected it to be given a major fashion makeover on the runways, with Prada, Loewe and The Row all elevating the farming staple through luxe manufacturing and chic details such as leather linings and embossed logos.
Meanwhile, contemporary brands such as The Frankie Shop and Dôen have offered theirs, with the £428 Pascual jacket already sold out, with a waiting list for all sizes in straw, and everything but the XXL in dark olive. It is described on its website as “a vintage style worn by Margaret and Katherine’s [the founders] father in Santa Barbara,” they recommend wearing it with a “butter-cut slip skirt with bias and light cashmere layers,” as a perfect way to juxtapose workwear with feminine details.
Stylist Florrie Thomas is a new adopter of the look, and recently discovered a great navy blue style on ASOS, which she wears during the summer when the weather is off. “When The Row, Jonathan Anderson or Miuccia Prada speak, people listen,” says Thomas. “It’s another classic piece that has had its moment. It’s an evolution of the canvas worker’s jacket, too, which is super easy to wear, if that’s a word! Some of the more waxy versions also have a heritage feel – a reworking of an almost classic Barbour – and contemporary designers love to look to British heritage for inspiration.”
For Thomas, the barn coat is a wise piece of investment, because of its versatility – it can be worn with almost anything. “I’m more inclined to invest in simple, effortless pieces that are the cornerstones of my wardrobe and can be mixed and matched,” she says. “I don’t know if it’s age or having kids, but while I’ve been gravitating towards statement pieces or floral dresses, I’m increasingly looking for understated pieces that look chic and can to throw together easily. A less intense style, I guess.”
If you want to avoid looking like a farm cosplay, it’s important to think about what you’re styling with. “I think it’s partly about choosing one that’s simply designed and partly about how you wear them,” advises Thomas. “Don’t wear them with wellies, jumpers and a neck scarf unless you want to look like you’re leading a team. Instead, layer them over T-shirts and wide-leg linen pants or take a cue from Prada and team for unexpected evening wear. I find mine useful for softening feminine dresses – Dôen’s version and campaign are perfect for this – and when I want to dress very simply and effortlessly, it looks great with jeans, a leather belt and a T-shirt. “
As well as the high street and high street versions, Vinted and Depop are also a treasure trove of well-loved finds, with great bargains from the likes of Carhartt and LL Bean for as little as £20. Or dig up your existing one and have it cleaned – with proper care, a wax jacket can last for years.
Barbour recommends using a soft-bristled brush to remove dirt, dust and excess wax, before using a cold-water sponge or moleskin cloth to clean the exterior of the jacket, to spot-treat stains with white vinegar. Next, hang the jacket in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight and heat sources to dry. If you think it needs re-waxing, Barbour sells a DIY wax option for £12.95 on its website. Worried about damaging it if you do it yourself? There’s also a repair and re-waxing service you can book online, which costs from £35 – that’s around £3,000 less than a new Prada.
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