by We slipped around in slippers during the lockdown and then tackled the highest heels as part of the trend for revenge shopping and post-pandemic event dressing. But now? Shoppers seem to have settled into a more comfortable middle ground as research from Kurt Geiger has revealed that medium heels are now the nation’s favorite shoe style.
The retailer has seen a 127 per cent increase in mid-heel sales over the past 12 months and while high heels accounted for almost 50 per cent of Kurt Geiger’s sales in 2014, they now account for just 17 per cent – this is good and truly. the decade in which the high heel fell. Stilettos and platforms have been relegated to special occasion shoes only. In 2024 these “taxi shoes” rarely leave the wardrobe.
Moving in at a manageable two inches, the heels clearly hit the sweet spot between comfort and elegance. Flat shoes are great everyday options, with the Mary-Jane jostling with the mesh flat for the crown of 2024’s most fashionable style, but when an occasion comes up, women seem less likely to sacrifice some tires for more style. Comfort is queen.
Net-a-Porter has described our choice of comfortable clothing as part of a wider trend called “casualisation of fashion” which was reflected in the spring/summer 2024 collections. We don’t want to suffer to be stylish and indeed we have physiological reasons for this choice of footwear.
Locking has made many people’s feet wider. After being able to paddle around barefoot, our bones expand because they haven’t been confined in shoes all day. Now, pushing wider feet into narrower heels and stilettos is a stretch. Instead, the medium heels add a flattering aspect of elevation while still allowing us to alleviate the burning sensation on the balls of our feet that has come as standard with most stiletto heels.
Stylist Jemma Cotterrell is a fan of the mid heel. “I especially love a mid-heel block because the surface area of the heel is greater, which makes you more balanced and able to walk without tottering,” she says. Similarly, Cotterrell’s personal styling clients also appreciate the comfort of a lower heel. “My clients definitely choose a mid heel over a stiletto. No one wants to walk in stilettos and they do our shin muscles no favors, putting too much strain on them.”
If you are also looking to get the most cost per wear from a new shoe purchase, the mid heel may offer the best value for money. While sharp stilettos are perhaps less appropriate for the school run and supermarket shopping, and practical flats sometimes miss the mark for after dark, medium heels are a wiser choice. Cotterrell advises that “medium heels work for both day and evening so they’re much more versatile”.
At Kurt Geiger, Rebecca Farrar-Hockley, creative director and chief operating officer, believes the variety of styling options have made their Belgravia mid-heel (just 2.5in) a best seller. “Continuously championing style, Belgravia drives the most business in our heels category. It’s extremely versatile and wearable, it’s understandable why it continues to lead the way,” she explains.
The rise of the mid-heel is obviously pain-free, but there are echoes of our high fashion as well as more practical footwear. For the spring/summer collections, Christian Dior, Fendi and Valentino all showed medium heels on the catwalk (probably much to the relief of the models, after seasons of too high heels). The trend continued into autumn with further runway looks at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Chloe.
Even the labels most associated with stilettos are diverse. Tina Lamb, buying manager for shoes and accessories at Harvey Nichols, says: “Our range of mid heels across a number of brands and at different price points has grown significantly in response to customer demand. Brands such as Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin, known for their fabulous high heels, have given their own interpretations of the mid-heel trend, which we’re responding to very well.”
Part of Gen Z’s obsession with all things millennial, kitten heels, in particular, have had little time since the late 1990s and early 2000s. The petite heel style is making a comeback, especially when worn with ankle boots. Be warned, though – even a tiny one-inch kitten heel with narrow straps or a dangerous pointy toe can make these little heels as painful as their taller cousins.
Instead, look for a block heel and a square or almond-shaped toe. These details will give you more stability and wiggle room to spread your legs. Changing into high heels often requires a pair of flats in your bag, but medium heels can be worn all day, making you happy to be able to travel light (and relieve your back as well as your feet! ).
Looking for a pair of mid-heels with extra padding under the ball of your foot will also be a balm. Marks & Spencer have bucked the trend with their glossy burgundy loafer-style ankles, but with foam padding and their patented Insolia technology, designed to stabilize the ankle and redistribute weight away from the ball of the foot , they are positively heavenly.
Patent leather block heels, £55, Marks & Spencer; Heel height: 1.7in
Lamb predicts that “leopard, silver, patent and warm tones” will be popular for mid heels as we move into the new season. “For autumn/winter, we’re confident we’ll see the popularity of medium heels, especially given the recent trend and them being seen as a wardrobe staple again.”
Mary-Jane mid-block shoes, £32, Asos; Heel height: 1.9in
Children’s patent leather, £160, He; Heel height: 2in
And as staples, they suit every occasion. Try them with wide-leg, high-waisted jeans and a cropped tweed blazer, collarless for a casual leg-length look or with plain pinstriped pleat-front trousers straight to the floor, for office-wear. Middle heel can look a little prissy with floral dresses or anything too girly, so try to give a little edge to their natural elegance with tomboy-inspired accessories or cargo pants. The two features will give an unexpected twist that will see your mid-heel proving its flexibility, comfort and stylishness for the coming seasons.
The cutest and most comfortable mid heels to try now:
Belgravia bow sling heels, £189, Kurt Geiger; Heel height: 2.5in
Tweed Mary-Jane pumps, £730, Gianvito Rossi at Net-a-Porter; Heel height: 2in
Medium heel pumps, £65, Geox; Heel height: 2.6in
Patent leather pumps, £290, Eyede at Harvey Nichols: Heel height: 1in
Mesh and patent leather Mary Jane pumps, £675, Jimmy Choo at Harvey Nichols; Heel height: 1.5in
