How to dress for summer while working in an icy air-conditioned office

City commutes in the summer can be grim, raising temperatures already at the height of heatwaves to near-inhuman levels, especially for Londoners traveling on the Underground. What better way to make a trip that will leave you melting in a pool of perspiration, when the destination is an office and the air conditioning is set to the Arctic?

The usual modus operandi is to leave a cardigan, or shawl, on your office chair to slip on when you get to an icy office. You could also permanently fight with your colleagues every day to raise the temperature. But surely there is a chicer way?

While it may seem inappropriate to be covered up in hot weather, smaller clothing can leave you feeling stickier and hotter. Crop tops and shorts are inappropriate for most jobs so leave them for Gen Z to wear on the beach. Instead, echo the style of French fashion icon Inès de la Fressange who chooses oversized men’s shirts in light blue cotton polo as her summer staple. The fabric can flow coolly around your body and the allure of a crisp button-up shirt is matched by the perceived professionalism of tailored goods.

Shirts are essential workwear for good reason. Leave anything that clings at home. Looser clothing allows air to circulate between the skin and the body, which keeps you cool when it’s hot but also provides insulation when it’s colder. If you want a science side to your style, Uniqlo’s Airism technology promises to adapt “conditioning comfort” to any weather condition (or any temperature on public transport).

This dress from Uniqlo uses high-tech Airism technology to keep you cool

This dress from Uniqlo uses high-tech Airism technology to keep you cool

Choosing pieces that also do double duty is a smart way to plan an outfit that needs to wear a temperature. “Look for pieces with functionality, whether that’s a dress with a zipper that you can open up when you’re hot and zip up when you’re cold,” advises Virginia Seymour, managing director of Aligne.

Seymour is also a fan of the shirt. “I love a great shirt as an alternative to the office card. You can wear it open, buttoned up, sleeves down, sleeves rolled up… A shirt provides endless options for styling and is the perfect extra layer on a hot day.” Try to open it as a shacket, worn over a cotton tank top that is tucked into wide leg linen trousers in a figurative and literal way to stay cool on the commute but not shivering in the office.

The fabrics you choose are also crucial to successfully styling your summer clothes. Thandi Maqubela, a legal director known for her fashion-conscious style choices, warns her to “stay away from silk because it clings to the body”. However luxurious, silk’s insulating properties are not the most beneficial on a boiling hot day. It’s no coincidence that silk long johns are a staple of country homes come midwinter. Polyester, a plastic-based fiber, will also make you sweat. Instead, look for cotton, bamboo or linen, all natural fibers that will help regulate your body temperature and keep you cool.

Linen fresheners such as this one from John Lewis are boomingLinen fresheners such as this one from John Lewis are booming

Linen fresheners such as this one from John Lewis are booming

Online designer destination Net-a-Porter has seen a 350 percent increase in searches for linen blazers in the past three months. The flax-based fiber is often grown more sustainably than conventional cotton and prefers the perennial summer, despite its tendency to grow. “Tod’s linen dyer borrows from traditional tailoring and has a summery sensibility,” says Libby Page, the company’s market director. “I’ll be pairing them with Loulou Studio pins in a cotton and silk-blend midi skirt for a sunny but effortlessly elegant look that doesn’t feel too rushed.”

Another important aspect to consider is a shorts suit. “A short linen suit with a light blazer is great,” says Page. “The fabric is breathable and you can style it over a simple tank for commuting.” If your office dress code prevents any shoulders, cleavage, midriff or toes from being on display, the longer shorts trend may be for you. Page states that “Over the past three months, we’ve seen a 103 percent increase in Bermuda shorts searches.” More elegant – and more realistic – than the trend for tiny sports shorts started by Miu Miu, the new shorts offer modest coverage, while the wider leg silhouette allows any available breeze to cool sticky thighs .

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The fabrics you choose are key to successfully styling your summer clothes – choose natural, breathable fibers like linen and cotton – Albaray

Consideration must be given to how much you can push a draconian dress code in the summer. Maqubela believes, “the clothes we wear are valid tools of self-expression, especially in the professional context. [Dress codes] have relaxed over the years, so perhaps people are more open to a less “stuck” way of dressing in the office, which can only be a good thing. Ultimately it’s important to understand the office environment they’re in – a technology firm might take a different approach to a magic circle law firm.”

Workwear often comes in slick, tailored shapes and Aligne has made tailored staples viral hits over the past few seasons for combining updated silhouettes with unexpected pops of color. While their longline coats are seen on the most influential people, they also make a great base for a versatile workwear look that’s suited to a hot commute and a freezing office.

'Slick shapes, tailored': another waistcoat from Whistles'Slick shapes, tailored': another waistcoat from Whistles

‘Slick shapes, tailored’: another waistcoat from Whistles

Seymour recommends a classic styling tip to balance different temperatures. “And the English tense as it is … it’s always about the third piece. Summer is no different.” The third piece is a styling trick that allows you to change up a basic outfit with one extra item.

“The waistcoat trend works really well for this,” Seymour continues. “You can pair a waistcoat with a skirt or trousers for your commute and add the matching blazer at the office.” Particularly on-trend is the combination of a long poplin skirt and waistcoat. “The waistcoat trend hasn’t gone away and will bring you into the autumn with light, airy and easy skirts for hot days, but look put together.” Isn’t that everyone’s ultimate goal, no matter what the temperature of the office aircon?

Get the look

Long coat, £119, Algin; Linen skirt, £95, Rise & Fall

Tod’s Linen Blazer, £1,320, Net-a-Porter; Loulou Studio cotton and silk blend skirt, £297, Net-a-Porter

Linen blouse, £160, Ma+Lín; Tailored shorts, £175, ME+EM

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