by It’s easy to feel like you’ve worked out in America. His music, cinema, television, literature and landscapes are ubiquitous in our daily lives. And this, a presidential election year, you can – if you want – follow every twist and turn to the White House, in real time. It’s box office stuff – when viewed from a distance, at least.
I have a long soft spot for the United States. I studied American New Wave cinema at university and I have nothing better to do than settle in with Steinbeck or Kerouac. But in recent years, I’ve reflected on events across the Atlantic and seen a country I no longer fully recognize.
Because if you believe all the loud think tank clones on rolling news channels or social media feeds controlled by narky algorithms, the United States of America is rarely out of line anymore.
As I prepared for the election next November, I realized that I would have to travel across slowly to understand the US better. So, I made a plan to cycle from the most northwestern point, Cape Flattery, to the most southern city, Key West. Coast to coast, and then some.
Over 10 bleak weeks, struggling with extreme heat, heavy rain and tornadoes, I crossed the Rocky Mountains, traversed the Great Plains and crossed the Evergreens. While interviewing hundreds of interesting Middle Americans: Trump-voting farmers, Biden-voting librarians and everyone caught in the confusing hinterland in between.
My journey is detailed in a new book, Game Tour across America and below are 10 of my biggest takeaways.
It is the friendliest country in the world
America is the land of superlatives. You can’t go a day without a restaurant claiming to have the best burger in the world or the thickest milkshake in the universe. Many Americans see their nation as “the greatest country in the world”. Maybe not. But is it friendly? In my humble opinion, yes.
In Central America, in particular, I was bought countless breakfasts and offered more couches than I could sleep on. A touring bike with panniers definitely helps. For many people, a bicycle is a “child’s toy”. The idea of a grown-up cycling on any country is very rewarding.
American cars are huge – no doubt
Why is that teenager driving a V8 pickup? Does that make 90 years old Seriously need a Hummer? Sure, call me twee-minded Lime, but most American vehicles are absurdly large. In addition, it seems that car-sharing or – not to mention – using public transport, is almost … un-American.
In Central America, the car is king and perhaps more than in any other country on the planet, there is a philosophy: if something can to do more, then it should to do more. Often without thinking about our shared environment.
Hundreds of small towns are dying and empty
The Interstate Highway System made cross-country trips between big cities faster and easier, but it decimated hundreds of small towns in between. Almost every evening on my 10-week trip I would arrive at a new place and say, “Where are all the people?” – there was the feeling of a zombie apocalypse.
Many Central American towns have the infrastructure to support ten times their population but now do not have the population to support the infrastructure. A few megastores have been successful on the side of the highway, but their success has taken the heart out of small-town America, where independent shops once filled the high street along with local newspapers and hardware stores.
But when you find a successful one, it’s like struck gold
Some small towns were lucky geographically (not too far from the interstate) or worked hard to create their own tourism industry. One such place is Lindsborg, Kansas – or Little Sweden, USA – where 30 percent of the residents can trace their ancestry back to the Värmland Province.
Gift shops sell Scandi trinkets. The supermarket has shelves dedicated to Norwegian licorice and Icelandic chocolate. A restaurant serves meatballs in a creamy gravy and the bars flavor their cocktails with berry tongue tart. Meanwhile, herds of ornamental Dala horses stand on the main street, next to a British-style telephone box, painted in Swedish yellow and blue.
Good luck finding fresh vegetables in America’s ‘food deserts’
When you move closely across it, you realize that the epic scale of the country is its Achilles heel. What struck me again and again was the lack of fresh food. Many small towns only have a gas station that sells highly processed, mostly beige and fried goods that have been pumped with chemicals to extend their shelf life.
There are 76 counties in the US that do not have a single grocery store and these “food deserts” tend to affect low-income communities. Ironically, however, some of these regions are correlated with the most fertile soil on the continent. It was not uncommon to spend the day riding through citrus, apples, maize and potatoes, before having to survive on instant noodles and burgers for dinner.
A British accent opens doors
Many Americans love Britain and Ireland. And they love to tell you about a long lost relative across the pond, their worship of the monarchy or their addiction to Inspector Morse. In some gas stations people would queue up to chat. “Hey, you’re not from round here, are you?” they would say, before introducing a story about The Beatles or King Charles.
My secret weapon in times of need? Pronunciation received. The trick is to sound more Downton Abbey than Oliver Twist. And more than once it saved my bacon. “Excuse me,” I said to an old couple in Arkansas. “But I don’t think I could trouble you for a lift across this bridge? Or I’ll be as ready as a pint of British beer!” And before I could say “Midsomer Murders”, the seats were down and I was curled up in the back.
So much of America is closed to the public
Britain is not perfect, and many of our green spaces are ringed with barbed wire, but unlike the United States, we live in a utopia. Fences and signposts line almost every American road, saying: “POSTED. KEEP OUT.”
George Washington, America’s first president, said: “Liberty and property rights are inseparable. You can’t have one without the other.” This philosophy is still ingrained in the national psyche. After this trip across America, I will never take the British public right of way for granted again.
America’s tipping culture is out of control
I like tip. I believe good service and good food should be rewarded with an extra 10 percent, or even 15 percent. I would, however, reserve the right not to do so. That’s the whole point, isn’t it? In America, however, that option has expired, and customers in restaurants and bars are now asked to tip as much as 25 percent.
The biggest issue is when fast food restaurants – including Starbucks – ask customers to tip the staff to give them a cup. No table service. No chit-chat. Without going the extra mile.
The land is epic and often feels empty
Ownership of a passport is a relatively new American concept. In 1989, only three percent of adults had one. Now that I’ve cycled across the country, I understand why. America is not only vast, with an endless network of roads to explore, but it is also diverse – meteorologically, geographically and culturally.
Sights such as the Grand Canyon, Niagara Falls and Mount Rushmore can be driven from your own front door. It’s no wonder then that more than 11 million households own an RV. These Americans are also proud. Those lush, cinematic landscapes you’ve seen in the movies? This is their sprawling backyard.
Don’t write Trump off
I interviewed dozens of Trump voters on my trip across America. And I hate to break it to some of you… they were all nice people. Welcoming, generous and fiercely patriotic. Somehow, a New York billionaire continues to enjoy Nebraskan corn farmers, Montana oil workers and Idahoan train drivers. Go figure.
Unlike the UK, where you’ll see the occasional A4 “We’re voting Lib Dem” poster in a kitchen window, Americans go big on their public displays of political affection. It was not uncommon to see houses brandishing flags the size of badminton courts.
But if you’re looking for a guide as to what might happen on November 5th, I’m afraid your guess is as good as mine.
A Ride Across America: A 4,000 mile adventure through small towns and big US issues is published today (July 18). Simon Parker will be speaking at theaters and literary festivals across Wales this autumn. For more information, visit their website www.simonwparker.co.uk/books.
