by As couture continues to be a mainstay in the fashion conversation, the fall 2024 season has shown its power on another level, as Paris prepares to be the center of the world, once again, with the upcoming Olympics.
Across the catwalks, designers made reference to the global sporting events, as seen from Dior, Schiaparelli and, especially, Thom Browne. Fresh, quiet luxury morphed into minimal minimalism and was elevated throughout the day while heritage couture trends of high ancestry, statement embellishments and wedding white were the takeaways from the most exclusive fashion weeks.
More from WWD
Here, WWD breaks down the seven biggest trends from Paris Couture Week’s fall 2024 collections.
Get Your Shine On
From Olympic silver-medal metallics to sparkling embellishments worthy of red carpets, the fall 2024 couture collections sent a strong message of glamorous shine on the runways of Paris.
One of the best examples was Giorgio Armani’s Armani Prive Couture collection, which WWD’s Miles Socha described as dedicated to “pearl colors, pearl-like textures and pearl-shaped embellishments.” The collection continued to sparkle over evening gowns and subtle red carpet gowns in shimmering golds, pearly whites, shades of black and black.
Elsewhere, Balenciaga, Chanel, Julie de Libran, Viktor & Rolf, Iris van Herpen and Thom Browne have flashed couture looks on the Paris catwalks in gold; in silver, from Juana Martin, Tamara Ralph (as in disco ball frocks with mirrors), and from Alexis Mabille, or in jewel tones, as seen from Elie Saab.
Winners’ Circle
With the opening ceremony in Paris just a few weeks away, the Olympic Games are in full swing. Especially for American designer Thom Browne, who “returned to the building blocks of couture [utilizing beige muslin throughout] — and referenced the starting blocks of the upcoming Paris Olympics with many references to the sport,” Socha wrote of the designer’s fall 2024 couture show.
His high-fashion, coed sophomore collection referenced the discus throwers of Ancient Greece from “fantastic final blazers in bronze, silver and gold, to today’s running feathers supported by radical heels with void platform soles, ” wrote Socha about a final appearance with an Olympic medal.
Maria Grazia Chiuri also appeared to be warming up for the games with an athletic look inspired by “the way young female athletes are reclaiming their bodies,” Chiuri told WWD’s Joelle Diderich of her draped goddess dresses — some some in metallic colors with others in white, styled over tanks – and sportif bodies with gladiator sandals. One body suit in particular was embroidered with gold feathers to represent “Winged Victory”. The triumphant theme continued with a pair of gold wings atop a black Cape at Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli couture show.
Minimalism evolves
One of the biggest takeaways from the recent men’s collections in Paris, according to buyers, was the evolution of the quiet luxury trend into “relaxed imbalance” and “understated elegance”. This conversation continued on the Paris couture runways as the evolution of the minimalist with simplified shapes and details on several runways.
The Jean Paul Gaultier collection by Nicolas Di Felice was at the forefront of the trend, which featured an “abstract, minimalist interpretation of Gaultier’s famous exploration of corsets and lingerie fittings,” wrote Socha. Di Felice’s monochrome looks range from tight pants to intricate body-hugging dresses all paired with hook-and-eye closures.
Boudoir Beat goes on
As seen in Di Felice’s exploration of corsets and lingerie dresses, boudoir was a strong theme during the couture season where the continued popularity of sheer layers and lace, cutouts, bra tops and corsetry made for a strong, high luxury. – luxury
Meanwhile and out on the platform at Schiaparelli, simmering sexuality, as seen in the collection’s sultry corset dress as well as Kylie Jenner’s ultra-tight pink corset dress and crinoline veil. It seemed, “set the tone for the sultry collection,” wrote Diderich.
Dress Up Leisure Looks
Over the past two seasons, more daywear offerings have been a central part of global ready-to-wear collections and sent a strong message into the fall 2024 couture collections.
The collection of the Chanel studio team, “was rooted in classic Chanel codes, with streamlined tailoring, elegant embellishment and a great deal of black,” wrote Diderich. Here, tweedy power sets prevailed with reference to Tamara Ralph,” said Alex Wynne of WWD, with feminine attire, as seen through the front houndstooth pencil dress with pillbox hat and veil.
Giorgio Armani was also returning to the idea of formal daywear, elevating classic leisure looks such as trousers and slim jackets, with fine detailing and luxe manufacturing.
At Balenciaga, Demna elevated casual wear pieces with a couture touch, pushing, “the experimental envelope with jumbo jeans, cocoon-shaped T-shirts, stiff and sculptural leather blouses, and pumps so pointed you could squeeze a wiener and roast it on. open flame,” Socha wrote of the collection, which even included a couture sports jersey.
Special Effects
Out-of-this-world textures were the delight of the fall 2024 couture season, with exaggerated edges, feathers and 3D developments adding drama to the runways.
For example, at Schiaparelli, “Roseberry alternated between sculptural sheaths made from layers of hand-cut ribbons that fell open at the hips, and stiff tulle explosions,” Socha said.
“I wanted it to feel old and mastery, but then young and kind of complicated at the same time,” Roseberry told WWD.
Elsewhere, designer Imane Ayissi had jeweled dresses embellished with long raffia fringes or “African sequins,” he told WWD. “A dream of galloping on a horse turned into a dream of horsehair as the model walked,” WWD’s Lily Templeton wrote of Ashi Studio’s “furry” animal black dress.
The New Bride
Historically, white bridal gowns have been the final exit of many shows. Today, as more brides look to the runways for their wedding weekend ensembles, the number of wedding dresses has increased as part of the collections, as seen through the many elegant white ensembles within the couture collection Dior fall. In addition, designers are offering styles more oriented to traditional wedding whites, with styles that range from glamorous and stunning to simplistic for all types of brides.
Among the highlights was Chanel’s sweeping ivory gown with a fine-looking floral embroidered bodice,” which brought to mind Princess Diana’s wedding dress designed by David and Elizabeth Emanuel,” Diderich said.
Then there’s Stéphane Rolland’s voluminous white hooded gown with porcelain petal embroidery and white organza – perfect for the biggest bride; gothic wedding duo Charles de Vilmorin, or reception party Alexis Mabille-ready with glittering, veiled catsuit.
Launch Gallery: Fall Couture 2024 Trends: Boudoir, Bridal, Daytime, Furry, Minimalism, and Shine
The best of WWD
