by Of all the questions I’ve been asked as a travel journalist, where to go is chic and won’t break the bank financially.
It’s the Holy Grail, where taste trumps, and bragging rights shift towards hidden, affordable gems. Many of these under-the-radar stays are on the fringes of haute holiday destinations, sometimes even hidden in plain sight (The Italian Lakes and The Balaerics, for example).
So here’s a guide for those living on a budget without compromising on style. From stylish, contemporary-classic stays in Sicilian Baroque cities to Como’s alternatives, here are eight ways to have the European holiday of a lifetime… for less.
Lago d’Orta, Lakes of Italy
Lake Orta is essentially what Maggiore and Como once were – free of selfie sticks and Clooneys. It is calm, wildly beautiful and very underrated, with the pastel-painted town of Orta San Giulio serving the right dose of culture. Piercing the glassy blue lake is the pocket-sized island of Isola San Giulio with its Brothers Grimm-esque turrets, monastery and houses that seem to fall into the water. Days under Orta’s spell usually begin with a brisk dip, pastries on a terrace and reading to the faint hum of a motorboat breaking the still water.
An afternoon can be spent exploring Orta San Giulio’s array of galleries and boutiques, and sampling Piedmont’s bounty at Pan & Vino, or perhaps visiting the contemporary collection of Fondazione Calderara in Vacciago di Ameno. The horticulturally inclined will wander through the Villa Motta Gardens, while walkers can head up through a series of chapels following the life of Francesco d’Assisi to Sacro Monte di Orta, perched on a promontory above the lake. In the evening Pull up a chair at the buttonless Osteria Speranza Omegna for moderately priced dishes like mushroom gnocchetti or shrimp ravioli.
Where to stay
La Darbia is living proof that the noble shores of the Italian Lakes and natural splendor are not just the preserve of movie stars and wealthy Americans. This is a stylish lakeside retreat that won’t break the bank. Contemporary rooms have their own kitchens and terraces, with views of vineyards that stretch out to meet the shore. Guests can also splash in the heated saltwater pool. It’s worth stopping in at least once to cook, after scouring the local towns and villages for excellent Piedmontese ingredients (cheese, truffles, wine).
From £250 per night, ladarbia.com
Modica and Scicli, Sicily
Since The White Lotus begged Netflix viewers to make a beeline for Noto (and since Mario Testino, Mick Jagger and the like started building their hilltop homes), the baroque city and surrounding prairie-like countryside increased their hotel rates. Modica will, in time. But for now, the baroque hilltop city, crowded with ornate churches against the backdrop of the Hyblean mountain and famous for its chocolate, is affordable. You will find cold pressed chocolate at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto (the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily).
You’ll also find an art and design movement, backed by cheap rents and the thumping beauty of the place. The walls of Galleria Lo Magno are lined with works by emerging artists. In nearby Scicli, crumbling aristocratic palazzi (like Palazzo Beneventano) always remain quiet and magnificent inside. Saunter down Via Francesco Mormina Penna for its good Baroque appearance then order the raviolini at Verace (near San Giovanni). Blonde, the sandy beaches of Sampieri, its bars and fresh seafood are five minutes away
Where to stay
A design-savvy duo has preserved the striking character of this handsome Modica building, keeping its original 18th-century stone floors but adding subtle contemporary layers for a stylish stay. Outside, a terrace offers a view of Modica’s honey-baked scones on Baroque buildings. In Scicli, San Bartolomeo Casa e Putia is the guest house to leave your bags there. Minimalist rooms with concrete floors blink out towards the name of the church of the hotel, their balconies lined with Sicilian tiles (and pastries for breakfast).
Sicilian Escape from £149 per night, airbnb.co.uk; San Bartolomeo Casa and Putia from £95 per night, sanbartolomeocasaeputia.it
The Lofoten, Norway
The Lofoten islands can be reached with a connecting flight from one of Norway’s main cities, and once in Narvik, it’s worth hiring a car and taking the famous scenic E10. Along the way, Leknes, Reine and Moskenes await, where the hikes are generously rewarded with dramatic landscapes and small mute-red houses hugging the shores of the archipelago.
The best part is that all this natural beauty is free – just stock up on cheese and charcuterie picnics in the main towns and then head to unnamed beaches like Unstad and Haukland, or head up to Offersøykammen to marvel at the vibrant rippling waters and rugged landscape. from up to high. Try to book in advance for the Polarhagen food evenings, where the Arctic Circle life of an escaped Oslo couple is set, and their homegrown vegetables are featured on the menu. And instead of the expensive Holmen Lofoten, spend an evening at Hov Farm, riding horses through the film series landscape.
Where to stay
Not far from the sleepy Lofoten town of Kvalnes is a cluster of fishermen’s houses with a ready answer. The style is smooth and traditional, with plastered tree interiors reflecting the simple life — warmed by a wood burner and embroidered cushions. Sleeping 2-6 people, five cozy self-catering cottages are sheltered behind the harbor wall. From this hideaway, guests can paddle the cool, glassy water with kayaks, hike to nearby mountain lakes, or drive to the bone-white beaches of Kvalvika and Skagsanden.
From £160 per night, villalofoten.com
Douro Valley, Portugal
The budget conscious tend to avoid wine country like the plague, but the beauty of Portugal’s Douro Valley is that some of the most interesting wineries and family-run boutique hotels are not too expensive. Affordable wine tasting experiences to book include Quinta da Pacheca, Quinta de la Rosa and Quinta do Tedo, with their panoramic views over the river. For a walk with food pit stops, go up to the Miradouro de Casal de Loivos from Pinhão via D’Origem for its olive oil and, at the top, the family-owned Quinta do Jalloto for its excellent port and honey. Pinhão’s stalls and picnic markets are worth loading up on cheese, meats and bread, while no-frills roadside restaurants like Sais da Foz serve up classic Portuguese fare at more than moderate prices.
Where to stay
Rescued from decay by winemaker Philippe Austrey, Quinta da Côrte is the kind of elusive hideaway that couples spend days scouring the internet for, only to discover through a friend of a friend. People return year after year for its slow rhythms, communal suppers and the simple joy of a book by the pool.
From £170 per night, quintadacorte.com
of Athens with Folegandros
For an unforgettable and affordable European holiday, Greece really is the word. Make sure you book a bit off season, for milder temperatures and cheaper flights. One of Europe’s most underrated cities, Athens has an infectious, creative and slightly chaotic energy.
Of course the Acropolis is the Parthenon-top, but the real joy of Athens today is the sight filled with its ancient bones. Creative people come here for cheap post-crash rents and artistic communities that form – you’ll find it at The Breeder (a re-imagined Metaxourgio ice cream factory that showcases works by Greek artists), or in hip Themistokleous where there are small-plate restaurants like Frater . & Soror trum with youthful energy.
Most of the trendy spots are reasonably priced, such as Mnisiklous Street in Plaka, where cafes are located on the stairs. The form, after a few days passing through the photogenic streets is to make a break for the Greek islands. Folegandros is a freckled and shy Greek cousin, cast as an introvert from the rest of the family, who prefers a book under the shade of an olive tree to a beach party, any day.
Where to stay
The Perianth Athens Hotel is a neo-modern, five-star oasis, hidden in plain sight in Agias Erinis square, close to the hot-ticket attractions, but still off the beaten path. Its mood is endemic of Athens’ growing creative scene, with guests booking yoga and meditation sessions at the Zen Center Athens (they share the same space), and walls dotted with contemporary Greek artists.
Once you are anchored in Folegandros, the Mamma Mia style minibus of the Anemomilos Boutique Hotel will take you up vertiginous cliffs, where blue and white rooms pared down exhale into balconies with views across the Aegean.
Perianth Hotel from £173 per night, perianthhotel.com; Anemomilos Boutique Hotel from £195 per night, anemomiloshotel.com
Puglia, Italy
Along with its raw edges and unfiltered coastal light, Puglia’s transcendent beauty lies in its simplicity. Towns and cities like Ostuni are a balmy, coffee-scented maze of affordable boutiques selling artisan goods, galleries (visit Orizzonti Arte Contemporanea), and restaurants baking everything from scratch, (try La Pastasciutta for affordable pasta and Il Vizio del Conte for moreish pizza on-the-go). First-timers are attracted by the panoramic views of the city that tug at their hearts from all sides, with the Adriatic looming ahead, and some of Puglia’s best beaches less than 10 minutes away.
Where to stay
Masseria Cervarolo feels deeply rooted in the sun-baked land, with its 16th-century architecture and cone-shaped trulli. The old farmhouse is surrounded by the wonderful green countryside for Puglia. Inside, the sense that prevails in the manor is more vaulted than the house – where a lack of renovation of the bells and whistles design saved the building. Much of it was upcycled, like the doors of the old farmhouse (now headboard), and its wood repurposed as towel racks. In its center is a swimming pool like a lagoon, although its beating heart (true in Puglian form) is the restaurant, where guests can peer across to the tiled kitchen, open plan to the ever-changing menu.
From £179 per night, masseriacervarolo.com
