by A white stream of white water flowed and flowed as we approached the meandering sides of Montgomery Reef, the 150-square-mile reef described by David Attenborough as “one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.” . The nose of the Zodiac nudged closer, our guide pumping the throttle to keep steady against a rush of whirling eddies and cascading waterfalls that emerged that seem to form out of nowhere as soon as the tide began to turn.
Like King Canute proving that no man is a match for the power of the sea, nothing can withstand the might of the tides in the remotest reaches of the Kimberley. This region of north-west Australia just got easier to explore, with the new Scenic Eclipse II “discovery yacht” spending its inaugural season scouring this rugged red rock coast.
The difference between high and low tides can be as much as 10 meters – it has been compared to someone pulling the plug on the ocean, like the drama of the rapid drop in water levels – making it creeping over the sides of the flat. -a reef with a top like a series of miniature Niagaras rising out and then being swallowed up in the ocean every morning and evening.
After spying from time to time like a periscope surfacing a turtle’s head in the water or a loggerhead picking out its prey on top of the reef – one offered extra suspense by a sea snake dangerously caught in its bill – it was it was sunset time to run back to the ship. The fading light cast a warm pink glow over its slender curves as the sun dipped behind the reef, We came back on board secretly feeling that we were out later in the day than other guests – not only did we see the waterfalls in full swing. plenty but with a sneaky sunset as a bonus.
That was until later in the ship’s lounge bar, when it became clear that the first-timers in the Zodiacs were just as sure they had the best of her, when they saw the reef – called Yowjab by the local people of Dambimangari – from being. completely submerged to reveal a mass of trickling rivulets as the water level began to drop. There is perhaps no such thing as a bad time to experience the power and majesty of nature in the Kimberley.
Now is certainly a good time, however, as this remote region – one of the least populated areas in the world – has become a new destination for adventure tourism. Arctic and Antarctic still rule the roost, but for those who fancy a sunnier adventure, Australian-owned lines including Scenic, Seabourn and Ponant are sending the newest and most eco-friendly ships to this corner of the continent which is still unspoiled. It’s an extreme environment even by tour standards.
It comes with not only the highest tropical tides in the world, but also the oldest Aboriginal rock art (at least 17,300 years old), some of the clearest night skies in the southern hemisphere and some of the country’s species most abundant sea bird.
“We want you to feel like tiny spokes in this vast, beautiful landscape and connect you with the oldest living culture in the world,” said discovery team leader Alice Forrest on the trip from Darwin in the Northern Territory to Broome in the West of Australia.
With nearly 1,200 miles of outbound driving separating these two points, touring is a much more comfortable way to see the Kimberley. In addition, the daily or even twice-daily trips from the Zodiac involve exploring the coast up close, often along stretches that would not be accessible on land. Even better, with a team of marine biologists, geologists, ornithologists and historians leading activities, short walks and Zodiac cruises become lessons in the area’s unique flora, fauna and cultural heritage, with ‘enriched’ lectures back on board to add depth and context. views of the day.
Regular cruisers will find plenty familiar with this “all-verandah” ship, which was launched last year and only holds 228 passengers at full capacity. There’s the spa on board, free-flowing drinks, a well-stocked whiskey bar with 135 varieties and a range of restaurants. Breakfast and lunch are best enjoyed at the yacht club’s sunny buffet on deck seven, with three specialty restaurants (reservations required) and dinner through come-and-dine deals. Expect a fusion of Italian, sushi and Asian, although the seven-course tasting menu at French restaurant Lumière was the winner with most guests.
But despite its glossy, monochrome decor and large butler-serviced cabins, this is first and foremost an adventure ship – the packing list is more focused on hiking boots and sun-safe outdoor gear than it would be ball boots and black tie. It even comes equipped with GPS positioning to avoid anchoring on the ecologically sensitive seabed, as well as two helicopters on board for those all-important aerial views of Mitchell’s Barrier and the one-of-a-kind Horizontal Barrier -type.
In the latter, the power of the tides is such that the water emerges through a pair of narrow openings in the sandstone rather than falling from a height, creating a mesmerizing horizontal waterfall effect. With our trusty Zodiac, we skimmed the swirling waters past the mouth of the falls to see the surging waters, with a short-eared rock wall bordering the nearby rocks.
Although these spots have the glory of being photographed a lot, the peaceful environment in Talbot Bay gave more time to reflect and get a glimpse of the foundations of the Earth. And towering sandstone cliffs dating back more than 1.8 billion years – thousands of years before multicellular life even came into being – and had to fold themselves, leaving concertina-like waves in the near-vertical rock faces that stretch into the waters below, it is a rare example of the immense force of nature, which has become apparent time and time again around every corner of the Kimberley.
In fact, it was these quiet moments – the crocodile swimming peacefully in the shallows of the King George River, the bright-red fiddler crabs lurking behind the mangroves in Porosus Creek or the pair of nut-wing brahminy kites passing overhead during sunrise. tour – which made this territory really visible.
When Captain Erwan Le Rouzic (a person familiar to fans of the documentary series Masters of the Sea) spoke to guests to say goodbye, he said: “It is Australia’s secret to keep the Kimberley to themselves, but when we travel here, we find these very special places.” It may have been a secret until now – but it won’t be for much longer.
Basics
Scenic (scenic.co.uk) offers an 11-day cruise, Discover the Kimberley Coastline: An Ancient Wilderness, from Darwin to Broome, starting from £12,906 per person departing July 21 or August 10, 2025. Includes the price of flights, butler. excellent service, drinks and food, and daily guided tours.
Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) flies four times a day from Heathrow and, starting from 22 June, five times a week from Gatwick to Singapore, with onward connections four times a day to Perth and daily to Darwin. Fees start from £1,132.
