MILAN — A return to classic footwear designs – often in feather-light, unlined leather – and refined leisure footwear seen in the ubiquitous boat shoe were among the strongest accessories trends at Milan Men’s Fashion Week for Spring 2025. At the same time , handbag collections relied heavily on functionality, reflecting the global lifestyle of the modern male customer.
SantonThe spring collection seemed to be a subtle return to the classics, allowing the company’s prowess in coloring and leather construction to do the talking. Drawing on the earthy tones of its home region, the unlined Carlo penny loafer in suede with a reverse Goodyear construction had a vintage ombré effect on the hems and piping. It was accompanied by a new range called Easy of traditional lightweight designs, including a sandy beige derby brogue that weighs just half a pound. In the sneakers range, the DBS Oly Cube model stood out for its ’70s tennis shoe inspiration and tromp l’oeil double buckle motif on the side.
More from WWD
At Valextra, chief executive officer Xavier Rougeaux’s mission to inject newcomers into the brand’s heritage while respecting its codes is progressing. Coinciding with a conscious approach to business, the brand unveiled its first non-leather products using Econyl regenerated nylon for a men’s capsule collection called Valextra Assoluto and made up of a backpack, shopper pack and fanny, with lacquered hardware black. “I think it’s important for Valextra to continue to innovate from materials,” said Rougeaux. Similarly, the recent introduction of a softer version of the signature textured Millepunte leather allowed the brand to tone down its sleek designs and introduce practical versions of its Milano handbag, Babila tote and V-line backpack without exposed details to introduce. replacement of the brand’s logo, including the brown hand piping. The collection drew attention to past and recent icons as Rougeaux said he sees directional and streamlined lines as key to the brand’s success. Additional lifestyle and gift additions launched in January included a collaboration with Faber-Castell on a chic leather pencil case.
The new boat loaf Otford noticed Churches. Its nautical inspiration, suede upper and contrasting rubber soles made it the ultimate style breakthrough to transition from off-duty moments in the city to weekend getaways by the sea. Its timeless design has been rendered in a sophisticated color palette of six different shades, from tobacco and forest green to beige and navy.
An A-list guest list including the likes of Xavier Dolan and Poppy Delevingne were spotted wandering around the impactful presentation Montblanc on stage at the Salone dei Tessuti venue to unveil its spring 2025 collection. The brand’s artistic director Marco Tomasetta celebrated the brand’s craftsmanship and heritage across a wide selection of leather goods, which came with a few novelties. These included a new metal buckle inspired by the shape of the mountains seen on bags in the Meisterstück collection and the M Lock 4810 buckle that appeared on the Extreme 3.0 line of backpacks and suitcases. The selection also featured a series of leather goods in a distressed and embossed design with a crocodile-like effect.
The brand also celebrated the 100th anniversary of its iconic Meisterstück pen, and gave a glimpse of what the Montblanc furniture line could look like when Tomasetta designed a special desk that accentuated different areas of the space.
Shoemaker certificate, who is 95 years old this year, continues to draw attention to his signature designs as well as exotic leather footwear, incidentally the hero material for the recently introduced ordering service, which allows customers at the store the brand on Via Gesù Milan personalize signature designs with the leather of choice, initials and custom colored hand stitching. With a price tag of 5,000 euros for some designs, exotics may not be for every customer. The spring collection expanded the footwear wardrobe that the brand has built over the years, offering business options including sleek derby and monk designs flanked by semi-linear informal loafers with tassels made in suede and defined by strong flexibility.
There are shoes PolliniBread and butter but the spring men’s offering spotlighted the revamped leather goods category with suede weekend bags in refined charcoal gray and tan hues, flanked by seven other designs intended for different occasions, including a new briefcase -modern with padded lining for added digital protection. devices. The collection was also offered in Bottalato, textured leather and coated canvas that is waterproof and scratch resistant. Footwear ranged from more formal wingtip dribs in vintage leather to summer sandals and penny loafers. A boat shoe slipped on a hybrid with a white rubber sole on each side with leisure derbies with chunkier outsoles and urban sneakers in white leather with a honey-colored sole.
Philippe’s model presented his spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection designed by Tuomas Merikoski including long and loose men’s shorts, loose tailoring in swimwear fabrics, short blouses in voile and poplin and women’s fluid shirt and apron dresses and Capri pants. But shoes are still at the heart of the brand. Case in point, the return of chukka style in the classic sabot “Big Model” and new interpretations of his signature sneakers through a new serpentine shield monogram, in metallic flowers and oversized interpretations of the shield logo.
The best of WWD