by The magic of Edinburgh, if you live in London, is that it has all the familiar trappings of a capital – the shops! The National Gallery! – but it is blessedly compact, with great topography. In addition there is the lure of its literary history, cobbled streets and beautiful architecture.
If you’re planning to escape the capital for a Scottish weekend, you can get there in four and a half hours by train, taking in some of Britain’s best views from north Durham by the sea.
These are three of the city’s best hotels, housed in historic buildings and a short – less than 15 minute – walk from the city’s main Waverley station.
Gleneagles Townhouse, St Andrew’s Square
For 200 years, until 2006, Gleneagles was a functioning bank. In that case we envy the very lucky clerks who worked in such a wonderful building. The beautiful architectural details have been retained since it became a hotel, from ornate cornicing and stone columns to beautiful floor tiles and stained glass. The rooms are characterful as well as luxurious. Who doesn’t love a roll top bath with aromatic bath salts? And you will start your visit with a smile because there is a small glass cupboard of tiny pastries when you arrive.
The restaurant, The Spence, is in the old banking hall with its fine plasterwork ceiling, and it is very good indeed, celebrating local and Scottish ingredients with great flair. I got there on Sunday in time for roast sirloin, with balloons of Yorkshire pudding, followed by the most sybaritic ice cream. There is a wonderful and interesting wine selection. Although breakfast is substantial, with good black pudding and potato scone.
It’s a members club as well as a hotel, with a rooftop bar with great views of the square – lovely for a summer evening – and a spa and fitness center downstairs in the old arches. I tried the Cyrotherapy room where you can stand and freeze for three minutes, maybe after a sauna. It really gets you going for the day.
Rates at Gleneagles Townhouse start from £495 (one room). gleneagles.com/townhouse
Virgin Hotel, Victoria Street
This is a fun hybrid: a historic building from the mid-nineteenth century in the Scottish baronial style that houses a Virgin hotel with neon signs, crimson decor and a high-camp vibe. Think of the bubbly Sir Richard Branson paired with a majestic old Victorian gentleman, and you get the idea. Boasting a superb location on a lively, curving street. Its proportions are alarming – one side drops steeply down to Cowgate – but it is navigable.
The first neon sign says “Welcome”, so the friendly and helpful staff make you feel welcome. Humor is involved; the browsing books are kept in the Comic Library, another neon sign can be seen in the downstairs restaurant Oíche: “Are you tempted?” and there is a small Smeg fridge for your room in the trademark red.
The bed is huge and comfortable, and the room is open plan with the sink and mirrors at the entrance. The only downside is that all the rooms, apart from Sir Richard’s, come with a shower instead of a bath (boo!).
The restaurant, The Commons, sources and makes the most of Scottish ingredients, from local scallops to excellent meat; I had a delicious and succulent Tamworth pork loin. Later in the week, there is also a shared table, where a chef presides over a specialist tasting menu. The weekend tea is served early (noon – 3pm) under the smooth cupola and is an eclectic mix of wraps and focaccia through sandwiches, scones, a tasty dessert and some very good desserts, served on China many by members teams that appear out of nowhere. . It’s almost as expensive as lunch and tea, but, compared to London’s ridiculous prices, it’s a bargain at £35. My only quibble with breakfast: porridge with toasted pine nuts? No! But it tasted just fine.
Prices from £309 including VAT. virginhotels.com/edinburgh
The Intercontinental at the George, George Street
This is the Intercontinental as you’ve probably never seen it, in a building made up of five Georgian townhouses with an early Victorian facade, which has been a hotel since the 1880s. In fact the George may be the only Intercontinental where some of the floorboards disappear with ease. Located on George Street, off St Andrew’s Square, which is a 10 minute walk from the station, it couldn’t be more central.
A former insurance house, the entrance is distinguished, spectacular, and sensitively restored. The feeling is not old-fashioned, however; The paintings and décor are a mix of contemporary and traditional. The men wear tartan trousers or festoons at the entrance; you can see the American visitors perk up at the sight. And all the staff are friendly and helpful.
Rooms are elegant, comfortable and well appointed, with large beds and a welcome bottle of fizz on arrival. There are thoughtful touches like an iron in the wardrobe, and the room comes with ground coffee with a proper filter, not just a Nespresso machine, and the almost obligatory Tunnock wafer. And let’s not forget the toiletries: Byredo, if you please, and, as is the norm these days, it comes in big refillable bottles and you love what you leave there. If you want a bath in your room, you must request one.
The hotel has a restaurant, Le Petit Beefbar, which specializes in beef, of course, and is located in the old printing room. I tell you this place has a lot of history. As I say, it doesn’t feel like an impersonal hotel chain but a place with history.
Prices start at £230 per night. edinburgh.intercontinental.com
Go there
It takes around four and a half to five hours with LNER to reach Edinburgh by train, with fares between £30. inner.co.uk
