by As I strolled through Le Manoir’s blooming gardens, I noticed a familiar figure milling about among guests enjoying an elegant afternoon tea. Patron Chef Raymond Blanc warmly welcomed everyone, asking: “What can we do better?” Not the obvious question from a lauded industry veteran, but remarkably free of bombast and ego.
Some 40 years since the opening of this pioneering property, Blanc’s terror and boundless energy are remarkable. Even more so considering how sick he got a few years ago. With Covid, he spent a month in intensive care, fighting for his life. Apart from a bit of shortness of breath, he is a force of nature today, his passion for generosity unabated for many years.
Case in point: our interview, scheduled for two hours, lasted no more than six hours, which ended when dinner could no longer be pushed back. From inspecting the many varieties growing in the greenhouses (Blanc was an early adopter of organic produce and sustainability) to explaining the stories behind the many sculptures scattered around the 27 acres, Blanc animatedly recounted genesis Le Manoir.
Recalling his first visit in the early 1980s, with high expectations from his long-shift predecessor restaurant Les Quat’Saisons, he said: “I was jumping through Country life magazine and saw the house for sale. After many espressos, I went into my old Vauxhall to speak to the owner, Lady Cromwell. I explained that I wanted to buy her house.”
Cynical enough that this over-caffeinated young man would have the money to buy her ramshackle property, which was in dire need of repair, she gasped when I told her my name and she went to make tea. Returning, she said: ‘Yes, Monsieur Blanc. I will sell you my house’. Her decision was based on a previous family visit to my restaurant, when she was impressed by the kindness and knowledge of the staff”.
At that time, Britain was deep in recession. Using his fame to raise money, Blanc retained 51 percent of the business. By the time the old manor had been renovated, the cost was more than £1 million over budget. It first opened with 10 bedrooms. Within a year, the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star; the latter followed soon after.
Blanc quickly realized that the bedrooms were generating twice as much profit as the restaurant and decided to triple the size of Le Manoir. His friend Martin Skan, one of the two brothers behind the famous New Forest luxury hotel Chewton Glen, suggested he find himself with the best in the business, which led to the recruitment of pastry chef Benoit Blin, who he removed from France in 1995.
Le Manoir pioneered the growing trend for innovative restaurants in a luxury hotel setting. Respected chefs who have followed this template include Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume in the Lake District, Lisa Goodwin-Allen’s Northcote in Lancashire, Tom Kerridge’s Hand and Flowers in Marlow and Gareth Ward’s Ynyshir in Ceredigion, Wales.
Simon Rogan says: “It’s amazing to think of all the names that came out of Raymond Blanc’s kitchen and it really inspired me as a young chef. His amazingly innovative art raised the bar dramatically. Then came his obsessive desire to grow his own perfect organic produce” (something Rogan implemented at three Michelin star L’Enclume). He continued: “For me, he was the trailblazer in this area; A farm-to-table visionary who influenced an entire generation, including myself.”
Showing me a selection of his favorite bedrooms, Blanc explained: “I’m very involved in design. All the rooms are different, inspired by my travels”.
I spent the night at L’Orangerie, a masterful combination of limed oak, stone and marble with the feel of a French chateau. Although most of the rooms were designed more than 20 years ago, they are in poor condition. However, they will be undergoing renovation soon; the costs are no longer Blanc’s responsibility since it sold to high-end hotel group Belmond in 2014 (acquired by luxury behemoth LVMH five years later).
There are plans to add another dozen or so bedrooms – the number changed each time Blanc mentioned it; his brain did not always match his enthusiasm.
More innovation is underway. Although the vines have not yet been planted, Le Manoir’s own wine blend is already being created with local vines. In the same way Blanc partnered with scientist Nicholas Kurti to examine molecular gastronomy – developed by one of his protégés, Heston Blumenthal (with his blessing) – they are working on revolutionary methods to speed up wine production .
When I inquired about buying Belmond, Blanc was very pleased. “I lost most of Le Manoir due to a bad recession and a transitional period of buying and selling. It’s hard, complicated and personal, and it’s hurt me”. Does he still feel a sense of belonging? “Emotionally, intellectually, in terms of vision and the context of everything, yes, but it’s not my place. To be honest, it doesn’t matter. I am the guardian and we are fireflies, passing by. The whole point is to leave something beautiful behind, not for yourself”.
It could be argued that part of his legacy is the massive inflation in hotel room rates we have seen in recent years. Although prices at Le Manoir will officially start at £690, a quick look at its online booking tool tells you that there are no rooms under £935 between now and the end of this year. A Saturday night in mid-June will set you back £2,855 for a one-bedroom, including breakfast. Dinner comes in at £245pp.
But Le Manoir has always been expensive, and Blanc makes no apologies for the high prices that come with this level of luxury. With a large team (including former disciple Marco Pierre White’s daughter, Mirabelle, in the pastry department) providing excellent service and the current economic climate, profit margins are not as high as imagined.
So what do these prices really get you? When I finally sat down to dinner, it became clear that this was not only a superb gastronomic experience, but also a theatrical event. My fellow diners were a mix of regulars and those celebrating a special occasion; they were all treated like VIPs. The menu is a love letter to fresh produce and includes Blanc’s classic beetroot terrine with horseradish sorbet; A perennially popular dish, he will be serving it at this year’s Royal Ascot by popular demand.
As his 75th birthday in November approaches, is there any temptation to step back? “I’m not interested in retiring. I won’t do any less crazy long days, but I want to see Le Manoir continue to grow and develop.”
Shelley Rubenstein traveled as a guest at Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons (01844 278 881; belmond.com), which offers doubles from £690, including breakfast.
