by Asos, Cephalonia, Greece
There is something special about small but perfectly formed Assos – butterfly and rose-pink houses line a horseshoe bay, with Venetian ruins scattered between the narrow lanes. There are two small beaches, but the real joy is renting a motor boat and discovering the small bays and coves that line this part of the Cephalonian coast. Walkers can follow the path out onto the headland to the ruins of the 16th century Assos castle; there is not much to see, but the views are well worth the walk. Roi Suites A cluster of well-furnished studio apartments covered in bougainvillaea in a neoclassical waterfront building, with stunning sea views from the pool terrace.
Doubles from £117 (minimum seven nights), roisuites.com
Ice creamTurkey
One of Turkey’s “citaslows” – slow towns, with an emphasis on nature and sustainability – Akyaka is located at the mouth of the Azmak River on the sparkling Gökova Bay. Behind the beach, a lattice of streets covered with bougainvillaea is a traditional home location (simple bistros) and cafes; at night the seaside restaurants set tables on the sand. Boats go up the Azmak from the small harbour, where fish restaurants line the leafy riverbanks and a shady walking path leads into the countryside. Akyaka is also the kitesurfing hub of Turkey, and there are many surf schools on the long beach just outside the town. The IS Iskelemnestled in a tranquil bay over the headland, it’s a wonderfully peaceful retreat with simple rooms and an excellent restaurant.
Double from £83 B&B, iskelemotel.com.tr
Göltürkbükü, Turkey
If Turkey has a Saint-Tropez, it’s this wonderful confluence of two villages, Gölköy and Türkbükü, with a newly created public beach and decked-out beach clubs that evoke a chilled, Côte d’Azur vibe. There’s a lot going on but it’s still much quieter than nearby Bodrum, and the restaurant scene is very strong – book a table at Arnavutköy for a sumptuous, fish-themed splurge. Behind the beach, souvenir shops stand cheek-by-jowl with small, designer boutiques pensions near five star hotels, and the regular dolmuş (public bus) offers the opportunity to explore other villages on the peninsula, including unspoilt Gümüşlük, with ramshackle fish restaurants along the beach. The Matiz it’s a friendly B&B with five simple rooms, a relaxing leafy garden and a roof terrace.
Doubles from £86 B&B, matizturkbuku.com
Šibenik, Croatia
One might exaggerate that Šibenik is a mini-Dubrovnik, but it has the same elegant Venetian architecture and terracotta-roofed houses – and far less in the way of crowds. This is a town built for walking: from the Riva, the seaside promenade, up to the elegant cathedral and through the passages and paths that lead up to the 11th century St. Michael’s Fort. The blue flag Banj beach is 200 meters away from the centre, with a restaurant and playground, and boat trips run out into the unspoiled waters of the Kornati archipelago. Life Palace Hotel A lovingly restored 15th century mansion, with 17 rooms that give the historical feel, with frescoes, exposed brickwork and furniture inspired by the Renaissance.
Double from £118 B&B, hotel-lifepalace.hr
Cavtat, Croatia
One of the prettiest little seaside towns in Dalmatia, Cavtat has terracotta-roofed houses that run out around a small cove, with two wooded peninsulas stretching out towards Dubrovnik, 13 miles away across the water. Low-key cafes and restaurants – some run by the same families for years – run parallel to the waterfront promenade, with swimming platforms and small pebble coves giving way to crystal-clear water. Boat taxis run regularly to Dubrovnik and the nearby Elaphiti islands, and there is a beautiful circular walkway through the woods, with a few simple beach bars that are perfect sun spots. Villa Pattieraonce home to opera singer Tino Pattiera, at the top of the promenade, with beautiful views from its 12 apricot-hued bedrooms.
Doubles from £156 B&B, villa-pattiera.hr
Santa Maria di CastellabateCampania, Italy
A world away from the nearby Amalfi coast, the Cilento coast is dotted with small seaside towns with faded palazos and fishermen’s cottages overlooking unspoilt beaches. Santa Maria is such a place: fishing boats return early in the morning to supply the town’s restaurants, while fishermen mend their nets on the blue flag beaches. Days can be spent lazing on the sand or following hiking trails into the Cilento national park, while the nearby archeological sites of Paestum and Velia are a major draw for history buffs. Wait at the Riviera Garden Hotelon a hillside 500 meters from the centre, with great sea views and a shuttle to the beach. Double from £72 B&B, hotelgardenriviera.it
La Flotte sa Era, Île de Ré, France
Once an important sea fishing port, La Flotte is one of the most beautiful villages in Île de Ré, with winding lanes and paths running between classic British-style houses, a waterfront with restaurants and a prestigious marina. Nearby Arnérault beach is the best choice for a lazy afternoon; the trees behind the beach provide shady spots for lounging, with changing facilities and toilets – although it’s high tide, so check times before you go. There are bikes to hire for the ride to the atmospheric Abbaye des Châteliers, and a daily morning market for picnic goods – excellent cheeses, breads and cured meats. The IS Hôtel Hippocampe is in the old village, with chic, airy rooms.
Double from £74 rooms only, hotel-hippocampe.com
ConcarneauBrittany, France
Steeped in history, with a beach belt and a working fishing fleet that fills the town’s restaurants with the freshest seafood, Concarneau is Brittany at its windy, beautiful. A two-part town, there are ramparts from the 14th century around the old town, located on a small island, and cobbled streets that wind between the houses to the bustling fishing port. Plage des Sables Blancs – a long stretch of unspoiled sand – is a short distance from the town centre, with good facilities including lifeguards. The Fishing Museum and the Marinarium – the world’s oldest marine station – are good wet weather options for families. The IS Hotel Ker Mor it is a quaint 19th century hotel on the water’s edge.
Double from £117 B&B, hotel-logishotels.com
Fornells, Menorca, Spain
Not to be confused with Playa de Fornells – a newer development a few miles away – Fornells is one of Menorca’s prettiest fishing villages, with a low-key water front dotted with palm trees that has become a fish restaurant hub ( the dish is to order. Caldereta de Lagosta – lobster stew). In recent years it has also become famous for water sports, with reliable winds making great conditions for windsurfing and foiling; there are paddle boards for calmer days. The town’s beach is small, but Cala Tirant, on the other side of the headland, offers clear waters and a wide stretch of sand. Can Digus A light, airy apartment in the heart of town.
Double from £57 one room (minimum two nights), candigus.com
lafrancGirona, Spain
The whitewashed houses, blue doors and small fishing boats floating in the water give Llafranc a pleasant old-school feel. Once the most glamorous spot on the Costa Brava – which attracts everyone from Ernest Hemingway and Salvador Dalí to Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren – it has mellowed into a quiet, family-friendly holiday that only gets really busy in July and August. The sheltered bay is ideal for water sports, including kayaking, sailing, scuba diving and stand-up paddle boarding, and there are good walks – especially the mile-long stroll around the pine-clad headland to Calella de Palafrugell – and enough bars to create a small piece. night buzz. Host Sa Teula located 100 meters from the sea, with 18 unfussy bedrooms and a restaurant serving locally caught fish and classic Catalan dishes.
Double from £109 B&B, hostalsateula.com
