by Better start practicing your serve – the summer of 2024 looks set to be defined by tennis. The three-month countdown to Wimbledon is underway, the Challengers racket-romp hits cinemas tomorrow, and everyone chic has already started focusing on the Hurlingham mummies nursing their post-match glass of AIX rosé (Whispering Angel, totally passé ) while wearing white pleated skirts. and a Ralph Lauren cable expertly tied around the neck.
Zendaya’s biggest take on all things preppy is Zendaya, who stars in Luca Guadagnino’s film as a former tennis broadcaster in a coaching love triangle with two Federer wannabes (Josh O’Connor and Mike Fist). During the press visit, she committed herself — with the enthusiasm of Margot Robbie’s Barbie — to dressing on the theme of the court. Big hitters include Celia Kritharioti’s tennis-ball-green dress (complete with actual tennis ball) at the Los Angeles premiere; a green SS13 Louis Vuitton look designed by Marc Jacobs during the Paris photocall; and a custom Thom Browne pleated dress, complete with athletic mesh inserts and tennis racket embroidery, for the UK premiere. The actual tennis balls on her Loewe heels for a photocall in Rome was a step too far, but it’s so SW19 ever.
“Mode dressing” (Hollywood’s recent painting of its stars dressing in the style of their on-screen characters for red carpets) is worrying trends, of course. Are we all going to start wearing tennis outfits because Zendaya looks amazing doing it? There’s no doubt that the glamazon would also look good (if her stylist, Law Roach, had anything to do with it) dressed as a chicken for a live-action remake of Chicken Run, and we won’t go there. Would we?
But the onset of preppiness has deeper roots than it used to, and interest is booming across the internet. Searches for “preppy tennis outfit” and “vintage tennis girl” are up 100 percent in the past three months, according to Karen Millen research. Trend forecaster WGSN has found that fashion items tagged “tennis” are up seven percent year-on-year for sale. The question, then, is how to pull off a sport without looking like you’re playing a game.
According to Karen Clarkson, stylist and owner of smart vintage emporium Portobello Road Found And Vision, the first step is to complete the old-school look. “My favorite thing is to search eBay, Vinted and Depop for vintage Fred Perry, Lacoste, Le Coq Sportif and other sports brands. If you’re lucky enough to find original equipment from the Sixties and Seventies, then match it, fix it and match it,” she says.
Old Lacoste polos are a staple (first designed in 1933, still looking great time-tested, established by Novak Djokovic in his latest campaign), and “my favorite in my wardrobe is the Fred Perry pleated skirt cotton seventies — I am. wearing it with an Ivory Extreme Cashmere sweater until the temperature rises,” explains Clarkson. “When the sun is out, a white T-shirt, tanned legs and a diamond tennis bracelet are required.”
In terms of footwear, Depop experts suggest that the Adidas Stan Smith tennis shoe is “prime for a popular resurgence”, following the Sambas boom, with searches up 92 percent on the platform. Slazenger is also a contender for best sports footwear, with searches up 93 percent. But Clarkson suggests adding to Zendaya’s style, which is rarely seen without her pair of white Christian Louboutin stilettos. “I avoid trainers and pair with a low-heeled pump or ballet shoe – it’s giving more of an off-duty grand slam star, rather than just stepping off center court,” she says.
Fashion brands that rushed to get in the game. For the campaign, Hobbs, Skims and Kim Kardashian’s Fila (in which Hailey Bieber looks adorable with an old racket) are all running tennis-themed spring campaigns. Varley, the athleisure/fashion brand, has just expanded its “club collection” – pleated skirts, piqué polos, caps and knits. Meanwhile Mango has launched a “Mango Tennis Club” capsule collection, featuring skirts, shorts and sleeveless vests knitted in navy embroidered cable. Even more on the nose is a white Alex Eagle T-shirt that simply reads “TENNIS”.
Luxury brands are banking on the world’s best players to boost their credentials: Gucci tapped Jannik Sinner and hosted a swanky dinner for him during Wimbledon last year, Emma Raducanu is a Dior girl and sent them to their Cruise fashion show 2024 Mexico, and Carlos Alcaraz is the face of the Louis Vuitton SS24 men’s collection.
A lot can be achieved while also looking at the court for inspiration. Referee-chic? It is a thing. Think navy blazers with gold buttons (Gant for a great one) and blue and white striped shirts (With Nothing Underneath is the way for fashion editors, although John Lewis sells a serviceable version from KAFFE) paired with a smart pair of cream chinos or shorts Bermuda pleated.
And for the fans, the Wimbledon bleachers are an opportunity to refresh the Sloane-ranger look. Last year, Emma Corrin rocked a short suit and beige linen tie, Yasmin Finney opted for a short, bralette and oversized knit blazer, and Lila Moss donned a blue slip with a Ralph cable sweater. He is a style ace.
Join the CLUB: SEE THE SW19 OUTSIDE THE COURT
Jane Court 28” dress, £105, uk.varley.com
Regular Club Fit Blazer, £350, gant.co.uk
Kaffe Button Up Casual Fit Shirt, £49.99, johnlewis.com
Millie Front Pleat tailored shorts, £118, reiss.com
Stan Smith shoes, £85, adidas.co.uk
Slim Fit Mesh Polo Shirt, £105, ralphlauren.co.uk
Emily Crystal Tennis Bracelet, £99, swarovski.com
Visor Allover D-Smash Paris, £680, dior.com
ANYONE V-neck Stripe Jumper, £32, johnlewis.com
Tennis T-shirt, £30, alexeagle.com
