by A few summers ago, as I was walking back from the pub at night, I happened to look up and was surprised to see the Milky Way clearly across the horizon. I was only a few miles from my home in Brighton and it turned out that all I needed was lucky time, a clear night – and a glance up.
But you don’t have to leave these cosmic encounters to chance. Yes, light pollution dimmed our starry sky. Even rural areas are getting brighter at night – and it’s not just our stargazing that is suffering; artificially lit nights are changing the natural behaviors of wildlife and also affecting our own sleep patterns.
But there is good news for amateur astronomers. The number of Dark Sky sites – areas where artificial light pollution is strongly restricted or discouraged – is increasing. And there are many here in the UK. Just last year, Enlli Island, off the north coast of Wales, became Europe’s first designated International Dark Sky Sanctuary, with some of the best preserved night skies in the world.
2024 looks set to be a great year for sky watchers in the Northern Hemisphere, with the predicted solar maximum increasing the chances of seeing the Northern Lights and a total eclipse due to sweep across North America this week .
Here are some of the best places for out-of-this-world stargazing.
UK and Ireland
South Downs, England
The South Downs National Park was crowned an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2016. It is one of the most accessible in the world, wedged between the south coast and the bright lights of London, with over two million people living within 10km of its boundary. Cloan Diabhail, Butser Hill and Great Hill are great vantage points for horizon to sky views.
Top tip: Visit in February for the activity-packed Dark Skies Festival.
Jump off the train at: Brighton, Lewes, Arundel.
Nearby: Vineyards, beaches, castle towns, South Downs Way.
Yorkshire Dales, England
The Yorkshire Dales National Park is the largest Dark Sky Reserve in the UK. With such a vast expanse of pristine sky, you can see up to 2,000 stars anywhere in the park – even in the villages. However, your best bets are the four Dark Sky Discovery Sites, including the Hawes visitor center and Tan Hill Inn. This far north there is even a chance to catch the Northern Lights.
Top tip: Raise a glass of local ale at the Tan Hill Inn – Britain’s highest pub and Dark Sky Discovery Site.
Jump off the train at: Skipton, Settle, Horton-in-Ribblesdale, Ribblehead or Garsdale, all on the Settle-Carlisle sight line.
Nearby: Tan Hill Inn, Falls, Ribblehead Viaduct, Bolton Abbey.
Snowdonia National Park, Wales
Wales has the highest proportion of land in the world protected by dark skies – and that includes Snowdonia National Park, which was declared a Dark Sky Reserve in 2015. Their mountain slopes and crannies are a formidable place to build light-polluted towns. on them, but they are great for stargazers. Head to Bwlch y Groes – Way of the Cross – for spectacular views during the day that transform into incomparable starry skies.
Top tip: Keep an eye out for lurking nocturnal wildlife, including owls and bats that rely on darkness to hunt.
Jump off the train at: Betws-y-Coed, Blaenau Ffestiniog, Minffordd.
Nearby: Wyddfa (Snowdon), Portmeirion, National Snow Museum, Harlech Castle, sandy beaches and waterfalls.
Cairngorms, Scotland
Things are well set up for stargazers in Glenlivet and Tomintoul Dark Sky Park. The accommodation is stocked with telescopes and maps, and there is a schedule of night walks and moon sessions. This far north, sometimes the Northern Lights also make a cameo. You’ll find spectacular night skies wherever you go, but the Blairfindy Moors triangle, the Carrachs and Field of Hope are some of the easiest places to reach.
Top tip: Download the AuroraWatch UK app to be alerted when the aurora is likely to be visible.
Jump off the train at: Aviemore, Charrbridge.
Nearby: Scottish Highlands, Strathspey Railway, camping, Glenleath Distillery.
County Kerry, Ireland
The Dark Skies Reserve covers much of the Oviedo Peninsula in Kerry. Here, the community-led Skellig Coast Dark Sky Festival kicks off in April with walks and talks covering topics as wide-ranging as space traffic, astrophotography, marine life and myths. Kerry was the first Dark Sky Reserve to be awarded a Gold Series in the Northern Hemisphere, so – when the weather is right – he’s as good as looking at the stars with the naked eye.
Top tip: The weather here is very changeable, so keep updating the weather forecast.
Jump off the train at: Killarney… and then a long bus ride. Driving is easier.
Nearby: Ring of Kerry, Skellig Islands, Wild Atlantic Way.
Speirin Mountains, Northern Ireland
There’s nothing quite like stargaing in the company of Bronze Age stone circles. Some archaeologists think that the Great Life Stone Circles were an ancient observatory, with rows of stones and piles apparently showing the movements of the sun and moon. But their exact meaning has been lost over the past 5,000 years. Marvel at the mysteries themselves at the OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory, where you can join a guided tour to learn more about the stones and stars.
Top tip: Bring your bike and shoes to make the most of the Forest Forest trails before the sun goes down.
Jump off the train at: Belfast, an hour’s drive away.
Nearby: Dhabha Forest, Sperín Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The best star spots outside the UK
Iceland
I went to Iceland during solar maximum, a year when increased solar activity shows a particularly vibrant aurora. The Northern Lights were indeed a surprise – but I was more surprised by the canopy of stars. Outside Reykjavík, surrounded by flat lava fields, the sky was so dense with stars that it was impossible to pick out constellations. Plus, stylish aurora cabins and toasty hot springs make stargazing a joy.
Top tip: Visit during the spring or autumn equinox when the aurora is most likely to be seen.
Jump off the plane at: Reykjavík.
Nearby: Hot springs, whale watching, glacier walks.
Mercantour National Park, France
Astronomers have been making a beeline to Mercantour National Park since the 19thth century. Here, the Calern Plateau Observatory has long had cutting-edge observational instruments and remains a base for Doctor Who-style research on subjects such as time travel and space geodesy. But you don’t need to be a pro to stargaze here; mountain guides lead night walks through this International Dark Sky Reserve.
Top tip: Pop by the Nice Observatory, which comes with stunning views across the city and the French Riviera below.
Jump off the train at: Anywhere on the line Roya Valley, St Dalmas de Tende and Tende. The nearest airport is Nice.
Nearby: Provence, French Riviera, Nice.
Andalusia, Spain
Leave beach resorts and cities in the rearview mirror and head to mountainous areas like the Sierra Nevada. Here, hotels like El Geco Verde work with stargazing experts who will guide you through the skies. Meanwhile the Sierra Morena Starlight Reserve stretches more than 400km through Huelva, Seville, Córdoba and Jaén, where the migration of people from rural areas has for many years left behind some of the least polluted skies in the Iberian Peninsula .
Top tip: Late summer nights are dark, so prepare for the astronomy with some of Spain’s best tapas first.
Jump off the train or plane at: Malaga, Granada, Almeria, Alicante, Murcia.
Nearby: Alhambra, Seville, Ronda, Sierra Nevada.
Big Bend National Park, USA
Marvel at the stars where International Dark Sky Week began more than 20 years ago – in the USA, thanks to founder and teenage activist Jennifer Barlow. This year, there is a big fit end. On April 8, an area of North America will experience a solar eclipse.
Eclipse or no eclipse, Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve is one of the best places to set your eyes on the skies in North America. It is the largest Dark Sky Reserve in the world, connecting some of the best stargazing territories on both sides of the Rio Grande. The McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis is also a great place, with a schedule of star parties and guided night hikes.
Top tip: This is the desert, so do your research, time your walks right, and pack plenty of water and sun cream. Or better yet: go with a local guide.
Jump off the plane at: El Paso, a five hour drive away. Why not spend a week here and make it a road trip?
Nearby: Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Santa Elena Canyon.
Tips for stargazing
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Check the lunar calendar. Full moons are beautiful but bright; the new moon is best for stargazing.
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No need to fork out for a telescope. You will see a lot with the naked eye and a little more detail with a pair of binoculars. Be patient though – it takes about 10 minutes for your eyes to adjust and expand your scope.
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Nights can get cold when you’re standing still. Pack gloves, coats and hats even in summer.
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Dark Sky Reserve volunteers often fight and run. Your fees help preserve them, so don’t be shy about tapping your card at donation points when you can.
Catherine Roberts writes for Responsible Travel.
Read more: The best places to see the Northern Lights in the UK
