by Weaving through back lanes off Wareham’s main street, parking near a church in the moonlight. Winding down a flagged stone walled path to a heavy wooden door, approached by sober staff in uniform with the air of long-serving custodians… arriving at the Priory feels a little like stepping back in time: really tasty. Even the 20-something general manager, the owner’s son, has a pencil mustache that gives him the jaunty look of a WWII ace pilot.
Despite its town location, The Priory has the look and feel of a country house hotel thanks to its four acres of gardens and stunning riverside setting with views of the reeds, open country and the Purbeck Hills beyond (look carefully and you will see Corfe Castle). Its history begins as a religious house in the seventh century, and as a hotel, now in the hands of the third generation of the family that created it in the mid-1970s, a visible depth, integrity and continuity of service is rarely found. in the meticulously manicured, tri-designed spa-centric luxury country house hotels – attractive though they are – are the norm today. If you’re a fan of The Nare, Plumber Manor and Gravetye Manor, all privately owned and run as well, you’ll love The Priory.
Around half of the staff at The Priory have been working there for years, in some cases well over 20. It is unusual to see older bar staff, waiters and waitresses in expensive hotels these days and they give an instant sense of dignity. , a refuge from the turbulent world outside. “I’ve known some of them since I was a little kid,” says Katie, who along with her brother Ben (the one with the moustache) is gradually taking over the reins from her father Jeremy Merchant. “They are family.”
With one notable exception, The Priory feels firmly traditional, particularly in the public rooms, decorated with paintings and furniture collected by Jeremy Merchant and his father before him. Are Ben and Katie, who look after sales and marketing, trying to change anything? Certainly not, they say. Sensible improvements (hopefully the pond will become a wild pool, a few treatment rooms and an outdoor sauna), nothing more.
“We love it just the way it is,” says Katie. “It was created by our grandparents and then our parents and we love the history, the solitude and the ancient patina of the place and how happy guests seem to be here. We are proud of what our father and grandfather have achieved and we love the place.” Is that the missing ingredient in many hotels, formerly private, now part of groups and brands – love? You honestly feel it here.
Of course, The Priory isn’t for everyone and it isn’t perfect: nowhere, in my opinion, is. Too many pictures of monks to begin with, and the drawing room furniture could do with updating, although the cozy bar feels just right. The former boathouse has four dramatic dark rooms with terraces and balconies overlooking the river, each with a whirlpool bath (not for me – I can’t trust one) but I prefer the lighter, more nicer and cheaper. the house with GP & J Baker wallpapers, a variety of beautiful beds (one with a deep copper bath) and beautiful views from cozy window seats.
The Priory restaurant used to be underground; now – a remarkable exception – it is a purpose-built glass and timber barn extension with views over the gardens and river and the Priory has taken the Priory into the 21st century without ruining it.
Another sign of a hotel that has always been refining rather than scoffing is head chef Stephan Guinebault, who has been here since 2006. With a childhood in the Loire Valley and classical training in French cuisine, he cares deeply about provenance and authenticity. prepare his ingredients and produce classic home cooking without tricks: full plates, the best products served without fireworks but with rich, deep sauces.
The chateaubriand from the local Devon Red herd melted in the mouth; a Grand Marnier and rhubarb soufflé was as light as air; and cooked breakfast dishes such as poached eggs and avocado on homemade sourdough bread were equally enjoyable.
Before breakfast, we walked the Wareham Walls. After breakfast we borrowed a kayak (there are also paddle boards) and pottered along the River Frome. It was a heavenly 24 hours.
Fundamentals
Doubles at The Priory (01929 551666; theprioryhotel.co.uk) from £240, including breakfast.
