by As the F/W 2024 Men’s circuit draws to a close, fashion editors are looking back at the runways of Pitti Uomo, Milan, Paris – digesting the clothes, reflecting on stand-out looks and, most importantly, predicting what the trends will be who will have the most staying power this year. .
And boy, is there a lot to unpack. From Sabato De Sarno’s first Gucci menswear show to Pharrell’s sophomore collection, as well as numerous exciting displays from British designers such as Grace Wales Bonner and SS Daley – this season will undoubtedly make a big dent in our 2024 wardrobe.
Throughout the packed schedule one thing remained clear: streetwear is out. Instead it’s a fresh take on what has dominated modern runway masculinity – from office workers at Prada, cowboys at Louis Vuitton and grandpa-centric 80s inspiration at Martine Rose.
Quiet luxury and minimalism, be gone too! With more adventurous and gendered silhouettes present across multiple collections, it’s shaping up to be one of the best years yet in menswear.
Skirts
Move over jorts, this year it’s all about the skirt-overlay drop-crotch short, aka the “skort”. Well, that is if the recent runways are anything to go by. Louis Vuitton sent a khaki green top layered over a pair of trousers down its runway, while Fendi flirted with thick navy wool iterations, as did Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus and Junya Watanabe.
Although considered a traditional feminine silhouette, the skirt has a long and storied history in clothing dating back to ancient Egypt, where men wore “Shendyts” like skirts around the waist. But even in the 21st Century the kilt is a staple, and heartthrobs A$AP Rocky, Robert Pattinson and Brad Pitt paraded on red carpets in skirts last year. So make 2024 the year the mainstream jumps on the trend too.
I love Wolf & Badger’s take on it below, perfect for any remaining gorpa enthusiasts. For a more tailored look, Steven Meisel’s collection for Zara features a stunning wool blend box pleat skirt for £49.99.
Western fashion
With a market cap of over $363 billion, Louis Vuitton has a huge influence on what we all wear. This season the golden child of LVMH has confirmed the western wear in, with the effects of his collection inspired by cowboys already visible in the Paris street style collections (although he could be guests wearing the cowboy hat sent as part of the invitation to the show ). Either way, with a range of chaps, tassel denim jeans, embroidered cactus silk cowhide shirts and decorative bolo ties, there are plenty of other ways to experiment with the look. And not in a costume-y way per Beyonce’s massive Renaissance tour. No, more like how former GQ Magazine fashion director Luke Day does it. Dandy-esque chic, tailored and American.
Saffiano leather bolo requirements, £390 (prada.com); classic blue cowboy cuff jeans, £472 (yproject.fr/); Sta-Prest flare men’s jumper, £110 (levi.com); embroidered western sateen jacket, £662 (ralphlauren.co.uk); cowboy boots with buckles, £59.99 (zara.com); decorated western shirt, £89 (cos.com)
Every tights without trousers
In 2023 tights as trousers were one of the leading trends for women’s clothing. Ever since Miuccia Prada matriarch Emma Corrin strutted down the runway sans pants, celebrities including Kylie Jenner, Hailey Bieber and Lori Harvey have taken the plunge. It looks brave, but everyone I know who has tried it is an instant convert. Of course, leave it to JW Anderson and SS Daley to prove that everyone can join in on the fun, with both designers sending hosiery-only models down the runway. It may not be an everyday look, but our bet is that the most fashionable boys will be wearing trousers instead of tights this coming party season. Although London Fashion Week will also be flooded with hosiery and tights on the FROW and in street style exchanges.
Les Belles is renowned for its gender-extensive hosiery, with tights specially designed for maximum comfort. At £15 a pair they’re pretty affordable too. Style like JW Anderson with a thigh-grazing jumper, or invest in short shorts to wear underneath.
Men who glitter
There are many exciting occasions, going out in our diaries are predicted in the menswear collections. At least according to the expected amount of diamantés and sparkling clothes that appeared in De Sarno’s debut, which included sparkly low-neck tank tops, sweaters with diamanté-encrusted lapels and shiny jackets. Dsquared2 also served up sequined jackets, as did Fendi, MSGM and Gucci. Although my favorite Dior look is this sharp crystal embellished ombre vest.
The best thing about this trend is that you can adjust your commitment levels accordingly. Do you want to go all out? Then this Patrizia Pepe number will have you covered.
But to take the trend more seriously, Valentino studded gray jeans are brunch and office friendly.
High Shine Jackets
Whether it’s waxy leather or glossy vinyl, adding some shine to your jacket is enough of a statement without being overwhelming this season. Very wearable, very upscale, which is why it’s high on our wish list. Loewe agrees, with their beautifully bright orange and green raincoats. As do Dries Van Noten, Dior and Martine Rose, who all sent models down the runway wearing high-shine coats.
Get the look with STUDIO ID’s ultra-wet-look patent trench coat.
While BDG Urban Outfitter’s Alfie Brown Faux Leather Flight Jacket (£89) is a great affordable option.
