by Victoria has more wine regions (21) and individual wineries (over 800 of them) than any other state in Australia, despite being the second smallest after Tasmania. The variety on offer is incredible, from chardonnay and shiraz to muscat. Don’t try to do it all; in a week you should not plan on visiting more than three or four regions.
On a five-day trip starting from Melbourne, I visited four regions – the Ballymornan Peninsula, the Yarra Valley, Rutherglen and the King’s Valley – and I liked what I saw and tasted, but I wish I had been there stay longer in each of them.
It’s easy to work your way out
Most regions are only an hour or two apart, and there’s a lot to do on a weekend from Melbourne if you prefer to visit one. Ballymornan, Yarra and Rutherglen are the big hitters, but you can mix and match these with lesser known and smaller regions.
Whenever possible try to stay in hotels that offer free lifts to nearby vineyards or, even better, stay at a property with its own cellar door. Ballymornan is the obvious place to start, an hour or so from Melbourne. There are plenty of small beach towns and several hot springs where you can spend the day (try Peninsula Hot Springs, with 70 different baths; peninsulahotsprings.com, entry £33).
From there, you can get to the state’s oldest wine region, the Yarra Valley, in about 90 minutes. Here there is more of a rural feel, with small towns such as Healesville lined with independent shops.
A hot air balloon ride will give you the lie of the land (globalballooning.com.au/yarra-valley; from £226). To extend your journey, continue to make your way north (with a longer drive of around two to three hours between destinations) to the cool open spaces of the underrated Strathbogie Ranges and historic Rutherglen, with its vineyards family owned and many gum trees, before any. final stop in the high altitudes of the Kings Valley (Victoria’s start to the Prosecco region, with Italian connections to match) on your way back to Melbourne.
At a vineyard on the Ballymornan Peninsula, you are never far from the sea
There is no vineyard site in the Ballymornan Peninsula further than seven kilometers from the ocean. The cool maritime climate means this is pinot noir, pinot gris and chardonnay country (or, as the locals would say, “pinto and chardy”). It’s only an hour’s drive from Melbourne, and you’ll be rewarded with occasional views of Death Strait, Port Phillip Harbor and West Harbor Harbor as you make your way. Don’t miss a long lazy afternoon at Montalto (00 61 3 5989 8412; montalto.com.au; tastings from AUS$15/£8) in Red Hill Mornington, with its beautiful vineyards stretching over the hills.
A small kitchen garden is on display, with more in the distance, and a sculpture trail that runs through the property. At the cellar door, you will learn how this retirement project has grown from more than 20 years ago to four growing locations. Sample the citrus zing of the cardonnays, and a late harvest sauvignon blanc reminiscent of sweet nectar.
You can stay in hotels with epic vineyard views
The top of the range is The Jackalope (0061 3 5931 2500; jackalopehotels.com; doubles from £370 including breakfast) a boutique hotel and vineyard with fine dining restaurant also on the Ballymornan Peninsula. Free wine tasting is part of your visit and, best of all, they can organize transfers to nearby vineyards, meaning no one needs to be a designated driver. If you’re still jet-lagged, an early morning swim in the outdoor infinity pool is the perfect start to the day.
Other options include the quirky self-catering Mount Ophir Rutherglen Estate (0061 2 6035 2222; mountophirestate.com.au; doubles from £213) and the simple but sweet Yarra Gables (0061 3 5962 1323; yarragables.com.au; yarragables .com.au; £121) – a cross between an American motel and an English cottage outside Healesville in the Yarra Valley.
The food is great
The laid-back Australian food you’ll find in every region is a definite highlight, with plenty of local produce and impeccable service. Try Meletos (0061 3 8727 3030; meletos.com) in the Yarra Valley for dinner, arriving at “golden hour” to see the ivy-covered buildings and sprawling vineyards locked in the last rays of the sun. The set menu consists of a selection of starters to share with no choice – perhaps creamy, dreamy burrata with tomato chocolat, plates of cured meats and fiery mussels with popped rice – followed by a choice of mains such as rich pork belly with a strong glaze or salmon confit. .
Other favorites included Grace Bar and Eatery (0061 2 5017 0017; milkinkitchen.com.au) in Rutherglen for ricotta gnocchi and heirloom tomato salad and The Piazza le Montalto (00 61 3 5989 8412; montalto.com.au) for pumpkin bread pizza. Of course, they all have great wine lists, but many also make interesting non-alcoholic cocktails.
You learn a lot
The local winemakers are eager to share everything from process and history to tasting notes. Nowhere is this more true than at Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley, just east of Melbourne. January has one of the lowest average temperatures in the region, so pinot noir and chardonnay are also popular here, but also shiraz and cabernet sauvignon.
Giant Steps (0061 3 5962 6111; giantstepswine.com.au; tastings from AUS$15/£8) is very special because it produces single-estate wines with real personality that give an overview of the valley and the different flavor profiles. For example, the Wombat Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir has a soft but long and firm palate due to the iron in the volcanic soil, whereas the Applejack Vineyard Pinots have a much smoother palate due to the basalt-based volcanic soil .
There is a sense of adventure about everything
Many of the drives between regions feel quite intrepid, though never scary. One of the best is the 90 mile route from the Yarra Valley to the Strathbogie Ranges (known for its fresh and aromatic wines). Yes, it is ridden on a hole, but it is also crisscrossed with lakes, fern glades, tall eucalyptus trees and plenty of lush green hills, and the opportunity to see kangaroos hopping through the fields.
Many of the tastings are great value for money
Think of Fowles Wine (0061 3 5796 2150; fowleswine.com; tastings from AUS$10/£5) as a service station done up to the nines. Families from regional Victoria meet here as a halfway point; use it as a lunch stop for kangaroo steaks. Those lucky enough not to be a designated driver can try two or three wines for free, or 10 for AUS$10. You get a huge list and you can choose as you go. , with the people behind the bar telling you what you’ll have next based on what you’ve liked most and least so far It makes for a very relaxed tasting a also feel that you are adapted to your particular body. I have experienced, but there are many others in a price range similar to the value of the tasting that is taken off your bill if you choose to buy a few bottles.
The wines are solid and excellent
Rutherglen, two hours further north of the Strathbogie Ranges, is one of the oldest winegrowing areas dating back to the 1850s and is renowned for its sweet and robust wines. The fifth-generation, family-owned Campbell (0061 2 6033 6000; campbellswines.com.au; tastings from AUS20/£16) is the perfect introduction, where the owner explains that the area’s long harvest is key to his intense rich musk. . Rutherglen musk can best be described as plum pudding in a glass, it is only three to five years old and has incredible depth.
Victoria even has its own version of Prosecco
The Kings Valley is one of Australia’s highest growing areas and the birthplace of the country’s Prosecco. The owners of Pizzini (0061 3 5729 8278; pizzini.com.au; tastings from AUS10/£8) have an Italian heritage that really comes through in the wine: try Brachetto 2022, a sparkling pink drink that begins with sweet notes. of watermelon but finishes dry.
But the best thing of all is … how uniquely Australian it is
In part, that’s because of the service. The whole thing is very relaxing. But it’s also about the experiences you’ll have along the way. Soaking in local hot springs, watching kangaroos traipse through vineyards, surfers riding waves in the distance, listening to the mating call of hummingbirds, and watching the sunset after a blue sky day, (few) tips and content .
Fundamentals
Lizzie traveled as a guest on Visit Victoria. Trailfinders offers a Wildlife and Wine tour in Victoria from £2,599pp for 14 nights, including flights, hotels and car hire. trailfinders.com
